I had booked a train ticket yesterday at Barcelona Sants. This was fortunate as long queues built up at this busy station, especially on the May Day public holiday. My train departed at 9.30 a.m., arriving at Pamplona at 13.15 p.m. and cost €61.60. Breakfast in the stylish and elegant K and K Picasso Hotel was not served till 7.30 because of the public holiday, but the kind waitress let me in early and even allowed me to take a generous doggy bag which would comprise my lunch! The train fromEstacio Franca (which was in walking distance of the hotel) to Sants only took 15 minutes.
The Pamplona train was going to Vigo as its final destination, speeding along at 170 km per hour, even 242 km per hour at times. It was a lovely sunny morning, and 15° degrees outside, according to a sign at the end of the carriage. I was thrilled to be back in Spain and watching the familiar Spanish countryside going by.
Arriving in Pamplona, it felt markedly colder than in Barcelona (13°) and dull. I took a taxi to the Hotel Puerta de Camino, which was just near to the Francia Gate, but quite a long way from the station. I explored the town in the afternoon. The place was packed because of the Pinchos Festival, with people spilling out of the bars onto the narrow streets. I found the Hotel Perla and the Café Iruna in the main square (haunts of Hemingway); got a Credencial de Peregrinos from the Municipal Albergue and also found a Barclays Bank ATM near the closed Tourist Office where a big bronze statue commemorates the Running of the Bulls festival.
Running of the Bulls
I woke up to the sound of rain falling outside, so I had a leisurely breakfast at the hotel before venturing out. It was even colder than yesterday, with the Pharmacy illuminated signs announcing 10°. First stop the Cathedral, where a mass was being sung by 6 monks and an organist. It was very soothing , and surprisingly warmer inside the Cathedral than out! At 10.30 a.m. the Cloisters opened, which included an exhibition on the history of the site going back to Roman times. Then on to the Tourist Office to obtain an updated list of accommodation on the Camino.
After a coffee at Café Iruna, a visit to the Museum of Navarre, which has many Roman mosaics and medieval wall paintings. A late lunch at a Pincho Place (anchovies on toast & Pimientos de Padron – delicious!) After a siesta, I made a quick trip to a small Carrefour supermarket to get supplies for the Camino (cheese, ham, chocolate). Then the hotel receptionist kindly phoned Uterga to book a single private room for me tomorrow. I was now as prepared as I could be.
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