I was up early for a quick breakfast in the hotel dining room, including a fried egg and little sausages. I decided to avoid walking through 9 kms of boring industrial suburbs of Logrono, by taking the 8.20 a.m. bus into town. It proved to be a lovely comfy ride! The bus dropped me off near the Cathedral, from where I was able to quickly re-orientate myself and pick up the Camino. Inside the Cathedral, I saw another pilgrim sitting and contemplating his surroundings: he was the 80-some year old from Berlin, whom I’d seen 2 days ago walking at snails pace. How come he had managed to overtake me?
Walking out of town on a new long concrete pathway, I met loads of keep-fit Logrono ladies coming back from their morning walk. Then, I crossed over the embankment wall of a big reservoir where all the men were fishing. After a quick coffee there, I noticed it was coming onto rain, falling more and more heavily for about 2 hours. I got soaked, having failed to put on my backpack cover, which I had been unable to locate quickly. It is quite miserable walking through a never-ending downpour, as I had learnt on my training trek in Tasmania in March. I didn’t take a single photo on this stage of the Camino.
On arriving in Navarette, I again checked into the best hotel in town: the Rey Sancho (€50). It appeared dead, as if the town’s action was elsewhere. I got out of my wet clothes and turned on the heating to dry everything, then went in search of a bar. I saw 2 other ladies, pilgrims I had seen before, consuming big bowls of garlic soup. Perfect for such a poor day! The landlord showed me his dining room and encouraged me to return for dinner at 7.00 p.m. (At least he was clued up as to pilgrims’ desired eating times!) I am now suffering from a bad cold which is threatening to get the better of me. I found a public library again for internet access and a sit down, amidst kids doing their homework.
At 7.00 p.m., I enjoyed an excellent pilgrims meal: vegetable soup; “special of the day” peppers stuffed with prawns served in a sauce of squids ink & rice; fresh pineapple for dessert.
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