Atapuerca to Burgos (20 Kms). 16 May

An absolutely freezing day! You would not know you were in Spain! I was determined to walk to Burgos, as this was the only way to keep warm. Firstly it was up and up, on a nice moorland track as far as a cross, where two Spanish ladies who had been at the albergue asked me to take their photos and then did the same for me. This was the Alto de Atapuerca (1070 m.), affording our first view of Burgos in the distance, some 12 or 13 kms away. I fancied the cathedral was just visible in the middle of multiple urban developments. In medieval times, the huge cathedral would have stood out plainly and given encouragement to weary travellers.

All pilgrims were stopping a bit later for refreshment at a busy café in Cardanuela Rio Pico, where I just fancied (even that early) a vino tinto and a slice of Spanish omelette. Delicious!

It was quite a long drag into Burgos, especially on such a freezing cold day where I had to stop every 5 minutes to blow my nose! We had to skirt around Burgos airport on a deserted bit of landscape, before entering Castanares, where I met an American girl looking for a bus to take her into Burgos, bypassing all the industrial suburbs. I was determined to find the so-called “alternative route” along the river, which I remembered from my previous visit to Burgos. This proved quite hard, because of all the motorway flyover, with too many choices listed in the guide book and yellow arrows going in different directions; eventually I succeeded and walked the last 4 kms into Burgos, feet protesting against the hard ground! The river route was surely much more pleasant, but maybe the shopkeepers of Burgos wanted to keep the other route open to encourage business.

Entering town, I saw across the river the Hotel Silken Gran Teatro, my destination for 2 days’ rest in a luxurious hotel! I was given a room on the 4th floor and later had dinner in the hotel, with an interesting starter of mushrooms and a poached egg sitting in a savoury cream, served up by a nice Rumanian waiter.

Flock of sheep near the Alto

Cruceiro

The two Spanish ladies: note their small backpacks!