Friday, April 22, 2022

Roncesvalles to Linzoian

Congratulations are in order!  I’ve now crossed the Pyrenees on foot three times. Not many can say that. But I think this is my “last tango in Paris”.

The albergue in Roncesvalles was full last night and they were turning people away with no reservations. They checked in 300 pilgrims when they were expecting only half that. No one could explain the surge. One girl, the paid official, was the only one allowed to operate the check-in desk and she also had to answer the phone. The volunteer hospitaleros could only show people to their beds and commiserate.

In front of me in the queue was a friendly Italian chef, who had worked all over the world. He suddenly remembered he had a hip flask in his backpack, which reminded me I had a tiny bottle of medicinal whiskey disguised as a vitamin drink. We were able to put up with the dire conditions (cold, wet and tired) by having a little drink, to the amusement of everybody else in the queue. Of course we were unable to share because of COVID.

I was a bit alarmed when I found they had given me a top bunk with an absolutely vertical ladder. But beggars can’t be choosers and I just had to manage. The other occupants of the cubicle were Spanish and I think they arrived too late for dinner. I enjoyed some delicious vegetable soup followed by trout w. chips, served next door at Casa Sabina. I slept well in spite of some snoring, soon fixed with earplugs.

Traditional photo of leaving Roncesvalles with only 790 kms ahead of me.

The good news was that the rain had gone and a perfectly clear sky greeted us. Here are some pics of the monastery complex:





Leaving town, I looked back to the mountains and could see that there was still snow on the tops:








My digs in Linzoain:




They have a dog which barked loudly when I arrived, but soon became my friend and followed me for a walk round the village.



3 comments:

  1. Hooray that you made it, and for the upturn in the weather.

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  2. I am following your journey! Hope that spring weather stays.

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  3. So glad that you are enjoying another camino, Margaret.

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