Roncesvalles to Vizkarreta

No wi fi at Corazon Puro, but there is across the road at La Posada, so I've begged the use of it here!

Roncesvalles to Vizkarreta

Last night I had dinner in the hotel with Sally and Karen from Perth and Gert from Holland. We had all stayed at Orisson. The dining room was quite busy, but I had reserve a table for 7.00 p.m. The menu was:

Cream of seafood soup

Beef cheeks in red wine sauce

Coffee flan.

Cost of Demi pension: 92.60€

I was in no hurry to get started today. My bed was warm and luxurious; outside was still misty. I had a slow breakfast, helping myself liberally from the buffet which offered many choices, including tortilla, cheese, various cold meats as well as all the usual breakfast items. The forecast was predicting sun by 10.00 a.m. and it was correct. Blue sky up on the mountain: I had chosen the wrong day to cross yesterday.

The way through the woods to Burguete was shady and above all perfectly flat. This village with its Hemingway associations was as far as I got last time; I was so exhausted from the previous day. I don't feel too bad this morning and can easily do 10kms to Vizkarreta.

Leaving Roncesvalles 

Burguete 

Looking up to the hills which are beautifully clear today. What a pity I didn't cross the Pyrenees today!

Corazon Puro Hostel, run by a Hungarian couple. My washing is out to dry on the balcony, top right!

They served a very nice dinner to 3 of us, including Angela from US and Jort from Germany. Menu:

Cheese and lettuce wrap in sauce

Turkey casserole with tortilla

Yoghurt with fruits

Today's expenses

Half board at Corazon Puro 20€

This was a real bargain. There were 5 bedrooms, each with 2 twin beds, so we all got our own room and shared a bathroom.

When I arrived at about 4.00 p.m., Barbara and Istvan were glued to the TV, watching the tennis final from Paris. They were supporting the Serb and were delighted when he defeated the Brit! They had a huge collection of books, mostly in English, but they also had John Brierley translated into Hungarian!

Orisson to Roncesvalles

Orisson Auberge

Lunch on the terrace at Orisson

Dinner at Orisson

A pilgrim pats a semi-wild horse in the mist as we climbed higher up the mountain. We later learned that these horses are for the French horse meat trade.

Signpost for Navarre tells us we are entering Spain

Koreans from Orisson finally overtake me at the signpost: if it looks wet, it was. The  low cloud kept rolling over from the Spanish side and falling as drizzle in France.

Turn right for Roncesvalles and then it's downhill all the way, knees complaining at the steep descent. A Spanish cyclist was advising people to take the road rather than going down through the woods. This added an extra 2 kms but I took his advice and I think it was worth it.

First sight of Roncesvalles through the mist. I had been walking for 8 hours and was totally worn out!

My stylish room at Hotel Roncesvalles, next to the monastery: an old photo is above the bed.

It was a day that proved to be too much for me, but somehow I managed it!  I've crossed the Pyrenees twice on foot! Not many can say that.

SJPP to Orisson

If ever there was a day when it needed to be fine and clear, it was today.  It takes so much effort to climb into these mountains, you need the reward of splendid views!  And it didn't disappoint.

I left SJPP at 8.00 a.m., looking at an 8 km walk. I dawdled along; the joy of walking with no backpack cannot be overestimated. Groups of people passed me at great speed, puffing and panting and struggling with the weight of their packs. I must have held the record for going slowest and carrying least.

By 11.00a.m. I was enjoying a coffee at Honto, where there is a small guesthouse.  By 12.00, I had passed Kayola, which is a kind of overflow place for Orisson.  Orisson is another 800 m. up the hill, and a few disgruntled pilgrims were already walking back from there. Orisson is always in demand. In fact, it was the first place I booked back in January. This booking is like gold, which is why it was essential to get here on time in spite of the strikes.

It was a lovely walk, with views into the far distance and eagles soaring around overhead. I rounded a bend and there was Orisson ahead, pilgrims sitting out having lunch. I soon joined them with a beer and my picnic from St Jean. I have now been informed that the birds are Griffon Vultures.

36 set for dinner at Orisson. It was a jolly crowd from all over the world. The French domination is now at an end! We had :

Lentil soup

Chicken with fresh peas and potatoes

Almond cake

Leaving St Jean

Route Napoleon: the high route. I've done it once and I'll do it again!

Lovely views and sunshine

Lots of wildflowers

Looking back to St Jean

St Jean: a few more photos

My room is a little gem, decorated in French Colonial style- a big improvement on last night!

View from my window

View of the old bridge, the Church on the left of it

Daniel(on the right) from Wakefield, has been carving a beautiful stick to take to Santiago.  He is showing it to the Jamaican guy from the basket shop.

Bayonne to St Jean Pied de Port

Expenses for last 2 days:

I've lost track, as I had to spend a lot to try and mitigate the effects of the train strike on my travel plans.

Demi pension at Gite Ultreia in Moissac: 57€

Train to Bayone via Bordeaux 55€

Bed at Hotel Monte Carlo in Bayonne 35€

Paella and rose for dinner last night 23€

Bus from Bayonne to SJPP this morning 10€

Lightweight daypack (Sea to Summit design Perth!!!) 35€

Baggage transport with Express Bourricot for next 2 days 16€

I've just arrived in SJPP, located my hotel (Izalpea) and deposited my backpack there. Leaving Bayonne in the rain, of course, it was another grey day. On the TV news at breakfast, the main feature was flooding of the Seine SE of Paris, where 5500 people are apparently in refuge centres. So I'm better off than them I suppose. But I'm totally fed up of watching wet countryside whizz by from the window of a train or a bus!

However, the forecast is better from lunchtime today. I have the rest of today to look around SJPP and prepare myself for tomorrow's hike. I decided that the prospect of carrying  8.5 kilos over the Pyrenees was too much. I did this when I was younger and fitter, but feel that I need to make it easier for myself this time! A man had a heart attack up there last week. This happens on a regular basis, as people set off unprepared or go too fast up the mountain. I will be the tortoise!

Last night's paella

Bridge at SJPP

Leaving town

Traditional window decorations by the metre

Hotel Izalpea

On my way tomorrow!

Bayonne

After a day full of hassle, I've finally arrived in Bayonne!  Bordeaux Station was even worse than Toulouse: it is being renovated, so there is scaffolding everywhere and its in semi darkness so it's hard to read the signs. Still, the train was only 5 minutes late.

Next problem: where to stay in Bayonne? It needed to be close to the train station from where a replacement bus to St Jean Pied de Port leaves at 7.45 a.m. Someone on the Camino forum recommended Hotel Monte Carlo, just across the road. It's a real dive, with only a wash basin in the small room, and the other facilities down the corridor. Beggars can't be choosers, so I handed over 35€ and took the key, grateful to have got here!

Photos from Toulouse St Sernin at lunchtime:

I'm just drinking a glass of rose before going in search of some dinner.

Moissac to Toulouse

The replacement bus (bargain at 5€ - though I wasn't looking for a bargain- just wanted to get there!) went slowly through the rain soaked countryside and along the Canal du Midi(?) before hitting the motorway into Toulouse.

Toulouse Matabiau Train Station was a madhouse as a result of the strikes. I had to queue for 45 minutes to wait for ticket J168 to allow me to speak to someone in Information!  It transpired that most Intercity Trains were running, but all local trains were cancelled. The lady at the Moissac stAtion had given me a list of all the replacement buses which connected all the small towns. This would have meant a myriad of changes all day. The Toulouse lady suggested the Intercity to Bordeaux and then the Intercity to Bayonne, a long trip out of my way and costly at 56€. I decided to take that option, as it meant I had 1.5 hours to take a taxi to St Sernin.  Mission accomplished!

Now in Bordeaux!!!!

Thank God for Macdonalds free wif-fi!