Burgos, 29 April

There was a lovely breakfast set out in the spacious dining room: the fruit on the buffet was especially good. I watched a few late peregrinos walk past at 9.00 a.m., noting the size of their backpacks (mostly too big!) this hotel is on the higher, official, route out of town on Fernan Gonzalez.

I moved my backpack down to the Meson del CiD, having abandoned the old suitcase which had protected my new lightweight Aarn pack on the plane. I left a little message for the chambermaid: "no lo quiero". Then I crossed the square to the cathedral and got the pilgrim's rate (3.5 E) to visit, complete with audio commentary. This gave a guided tour lasting about an hour.

Burgos was the first Gothic cathedral to be built in Spain. There were displays and models in the cloister, showing how it was extended and embellished over the centuries. It also explained how the different levels on the sloping site were cleverly compensated for, including a magnificent staircase by Diego de Siloe, leading up to the north door of the cathedral. El CiD and his wife are buried beneath the transept crossing.

I had the Menu del Dia for lunch at the Bonfin Restaurant: Sopa Castellana, grilled Merluza w. salad, then Tarta de Manzana for dessert. I went back to the hotel for a siesta, but was disturbed by people arriving in the next room and their plumbing. I was about to make myself a cup of tea when I discovered I had left my adaptor plug behind at the Abba. On returning there, I was delighted when it was returned to me from a box of similar paraphernalia kept at reception.

At 5.00 p.m. the Museo de Burgos opened, so I went along to see the archaeological exhibits and medieval paintings. I passed a "China Shop" on the way and was able to buy a dinky little hairbrush for under 2E. Strolling back across the river, I couldn't resist having chocolate w. churros at a popular cafe. This just about filled me up for the evening, so I went to bed and read my Kindle, forgetting about dinner.

My room at Meson del Cid is in a prime spot overlooking the cathedral's west door. I can also see over the typical red and ochre rooftops to a line of wind turbines on a green ridge in the distance.

View from my window

Meson del Cid - my balcony is near the Hotel sign

This fresh pilgrim seated next to a weary one