Last night the weather suddenly seemed to take a turn for the worse, with rain showers forecast. I didn’t want to venture far for dinner and the nearest recommended place was a Thai Restaurant called Clandestino Gastrobar. Their pad Thai was hot and spicy and absolutely delish on a cold night, with a nice glass of Verdejo.
This morning, I found the shower wasn’t working- only cold water produced. So they gave me another room and I had to shift all my belongings. This hotel is recommended for its location and value for money, but there seem to be various maintenance issues. One good thing ,though, is the existence of a Carrefour Express mini supermarket just across the road where I picked up supplies for picnic lunches.
The temperature was down to 16 degrees with a piercingly cold wind when I set out to buy a SIM card (€20) for a month from an Orange store.
My sightseeing priority today was San Isidiro: both the church and the royal pantheon with its unique wall and ceiling paintings. Photography was absolutely forbidden in the pantheon, but I have been there in the past and sneaked a few! The paintings are unique in Spain and date from the first 3rd of the 12th century. Most portray biblical scenes, but my favourite ones depict a calendar of typical scenes from the agricultural year ( eg picking grapes, killing a pig, sitting by the fire at Christmas etc). http://caminoconfidential.blogspot.com/2014/08/leon-10-may-rest-day.html?m=0
The next stop was San Isidoro Church itself, where unlimited photography was possible.
In the afternoon I walked down to San Marco, intending to pop into the Parador for old times sake. What a shock - it was closed for renovations! Men working on the roof and a huge crane on top, windows boarded up and the whole area taped off! No exploring the historic interior or having a drink in the bar out of the cold.