Carrion de los Condes to Sahagun, 6 May (by bus)

After my bad dose of food poisoning, I was feeling too weak to walk anywhere.  Fortunately I had already booked a ticket on the bus leaving at 11.50 a.m., thus avoiding 17 ams of boring meseta, with no villages en route for refreshments.  As I was leaving the convent, I spoke to an Englishman who had just arrived in town.  He said that exactly a year ago he had suffered from gastro following a visit to that same restaurant, and what's more he had heard his neighbours throwing up as well!  I resolved to post a warning on the Santiago forum when I got home.

The day was somewhat cold and grey.  I sat in the bar where the bus tickets were booked for a couple of hours, drinking 2 "tee con limon", which was all I dared load into my stomach.  As the morning progressed, crowds of pilgrims arrived to wait for the bus.  Most had booked all the way to Leon.  The efficient ALSA system gives you a numbered seat, so there is no panic.

The bus stop for Sahagun was on this side of town, right outside the enormous hotel, Puerta del Camino.  Still feeling low, I was determined to stay there whatever the cost.  Imagine my surprise when I was quoted €25 for a single room.  I had a bath and went to bed for a 3-hour siesta, to allow my body to recover from the shock of the previous night.  I then made myself a cup of Miso soup (thanks to my new adaptor).

I watched TV for an hour and then went back to sleep.  The only problem was that this was a noisy hotel, with every surface constructed of marble, with not a single carpet anywhere.  There was a notice in Spanish warning that it had only just opened after a period of closure, so services might be somewhat restricted.  There was no mini bar, but a full range of toiletries that were very welcome and added to my dwindling supplies.

Villalcazar de Sirga to Carrion de los Condes, 5 May (5 kms)

From Villalcazar de Sirga ("town of the canal towpath") to Carrion de los Condes it was only 5 kms.  I had resolved to stay in this town for a rest.  The first accommodation I came to was the Convent of Santa Clara, where I easily secured a single room (ex-nun's cell?) so early in the day for €22.  The funny little man in charge of interacting with visitors insisted on giving me more information than I needed and showed me around the albergue facilities.  There were 3 temperamental locks to negotiate to reach my upstairs room!

It was another pleasant sunny day in which to explore the town.  Firstly, I went to the information kiosk, where I discovered that one bus per day in the direction of Leon departed at 11.50 a.m.  I went across the road to the bar to buy a ticket for tomorrow.  Emily and her 2 Korean friends were sitting in the bar waiting for today's bus.  Her chest was bad and she had almost lost her voice.  She said the walk from Fromista along the send had nearly killed her!

Setting off into the town centre, the practically first thing I saw was a Ferreteria.  I was able to buy an international adaptor for €4.  Then I followed the Camino arrows through the historic streets, passed the 2 notable churches dating back to the 11th century, crossed the river and finally ended up at the Real Monasterio de San Zoilo.  I had a poke around the grounds and the reception area (very like a Parador) and discovered that a single room was only €65.  I could have stayed there, but Emily had previously searched Booking.com and found it was full.

On the way back to Santa Clara, I had a quick shop at the biggest supermarket - a really excellent place, and bought cheese, ham, bread, a litre packet of red wine, fruit and yoghourt (probably too much to carry!) There was so much to be had, compared with previous shops on the Camino, that I got carried away.

After lunch in my little cell, I had an hour's siesta, then took a "half bath" and washed my hair.  At 5.00 p.m. when the town opened up again, I headed for the public library for a long Internet session.  I then went to the Church which reportedly had a frieze depicting the annual tribute of 100 maidens which the Moors extracted from the town in the Middle Ages.  I couldn't find it.

I had dinner at La Corte Restaurant. I chose not to take the Pilgrims' Menu, but instead selected a mixed salad followed by an enormous trout.  This was my down fall, as I was up all night with a very bad attack of gastro.

Pilgrim statue at Carrion

Monastery of San Zoilo

Romanesque church of Santa Maria del Camino

Courtyard of Santa Clara Convent

View from my window at the convent:
swallows circling at dusk