Mazarife to Hospital, 12 May (15kms)

It was another perfect Spring morning.  I had a latish breakfast and set off down the road at 8.15 a.m.  There were storks flying around and frogs calling from the fast-flowing irrigation channels.  I saw big clumps of red poppies, brilliant in the sunshine.  Ahead there was a mountain range in the distance, snow covered.

Poppies

The road into Villavante seemed never-ending.  I walked right through the town, ignoring the tempting bars (now quiet since I was just about the last pilgrim going through).  I went on till eventually I found the Molino Galochas, where I would really have liked to stay the night, but it would have made the stage too long.  The conversion of the mill was a superb job, with the millstream actually going underneath the house.  There was a fairly big wild garden, set about with grinding wheels for tables and lounge beds on the grass.  I had to ring the bell, as no-one appeared to be about, but just at that moment Jacotrans turned up with 2 suitcases to deliver.  The friendly lady of the house served me a beer and a baguette with a freshly made French omelette and York ham (€4), and then I made use of a lounge bed for 15 minutes "descanso".  I also went inside to the loo, and was able to sneak a look at one of the bedrooms: what a pity I had missed out on staying there!

Molino Galochas

It seemed a long trek from Villavante to Hospital, especially in the hot midday sun.  It took me a long time to locate my hotel, El Paso Honroso;  not a good choice, as it turned out to be a modern, motel-type place on the main road, rather than in the pretty old town centre. However, the quiet room I requested was just that, situated looking over fields at the back.

The famous Hospital bridge was certainly worth seeing, the longest medieval bridge in Spain, with 19 arches, though only a few were actually over water now.

Bridge at Hospital

The place I chose for an early dinner was not the best, though it boasted the local speciality: trout soup.  I had this, followed by some very overcooked chicken and chips.  I chatted to a S. African woman, who was doing huge distances every day on a very tight schedule.  She told me something useful:  her son had put an ap on her iPhone, which would automatically send any photos she took back to their computer at home.

Leon to Villar de Mazarife, 11 May (22 kms - part by bus)

I arrived very early for the 8.30 a.m.bus out of Leon.  Several people were already hanging about at the bus stop, hoping for a 7.30 bus, not realising it was Sunday service.  So, I shared a taxi with Jose from Melbourne and Thomasina from the U.S., both fluent Spanish speakers.  We each paid €5 to La Virgen del Camino, and then set off walking.  There was a choice of routes.  Most people chose the send, but I wanted the scenic route through more small villages.

It was a day for wildflowers, with great clumps of European orchids, blue gentians, yellow gorse, cornflowers and poppies.  I saw a French couple who had hired mules to carry their belongings.  Apparently when they reach Santiago they put them on a train and send them home!  I also met 2 Finnish ladies, older than me, one of them blind.

Mazarife

It was rather cloudy and a cold wind started blowing across the fields, some with wheat and one stretching as far as they eye could see with the remains of a corn on the cob crop, which had all been slashed in the Autumn. I had a beer at 11.30 a.m. in the practically deserted village of Chozas de Abajo, before walking the final hour into Villar de Mazarife and my destination:  Albergue Tio Pepe, where they gave me a private room in the house next door.  This had either been vacated for the season, or somebody had died, for everything in the wardrobe and kitchen was intact. I helped myself liberally to all the oils and greases in the bathroom, then went along to the bar at Tio Pepe for an ice-cream and a turn with the Internet.

I sat outside in the sun near the Church opposite and wrote up my diary.  I also chatted to a Danish woman and her walking companion from Brazil.  They had just started the Camino and met that morning starting out from the albergue.  We had a vino rosado with the couple from Cairns, who were planning to do 28 kms tomorrow to Astorga.  Madness!  Especially as her feet were not recovered from a blister attack.  I think they were behind schedule because of his gastro a few days ago.

Dinner at Tio Pepe was paella, meatballs and yoghourt, with very friendly service.  Not all the pilgrims were having dinner, but a great crowd of them were boozing on beer, wine and cider in the courtyard.

Lavender

Orchid

Gentians

Meadow

View from my window:  storks nesting

Albergue Tio Pepe