Perth to Córdoba cont’d…

One of my challenges this year was to travel with carry-on luggage only. I studied Emirates rules for size and weight (55X38X22 cm and 7 kg). In order to squash my Aarn backpack down to size, I removed the front balance pockets, thinking my pack would be a lot lighter without a sleeping bag. No more albergues! When I checked in at Perth airport, they were only interested in weight, which was just over 6 kg. Result! However, I found it very hard work carrying this load around the 3 airports where there is a long, long trek from plane to exit. I had based my plan on the need to get quickly from Barajas Airport to Atocha train station in 1.5 hours. I didn’t want to have to wait around for baggage to be unloaded onto the carousel. Theoretically this was a good move, except for the long queues at Security and Immigration in Madrid due to huge numbers of arrivals.

I knew that the busy main Atocha station would be difficult to navigate. I got there in about 45 minutes on the Cercanias train, which was free with my Iryo train ticket to Cordoba. I just had to show the Iryo ticket on my phone, which I kept doing at Atocha to get directions to the Iryo lines. I was dying of thirst, but dare not stop to buy a drink!

It was a huge relief to board the train, find my seat and get to the buffet car for an aqua con gas. The woman sitting next to me was a native of Cordoba and talked to me non-stop about what to see, what to eat and where to eat it. She wrote the places down in the back of my guide book. Fortunately, Hotel Maestre was within walking distance of all of them.

One last hurdle: as the train was pulling in to Cordoba, there was a signal failure. The train was stuck for 40 minutes from 5.00 pm. After more than 24 hours on the go, I was pretty exhausted and completely fed up by this time! When we finally got there, the platforms in Cordoba station were chaotic: packed with angry travellers. Our train must have caused a bottleneck and other trains were stuck behind it. It was the main line to Malaga, so lots of people were going there!

Outside the station were lots and lots of taxis, the drivers standing around chatting. I jumped in the first one and we drove at speed through the narrow streets of the old town to Hotel Maestre. My tiny single room with ensuite is a bargain at €45 with a view down into the central courtyard and no noise! Perfect for a good night’s sleep (3 in fact).

Perth to Cordoba

Off on another Spanish trip! The Emirates flight was filled to capacity as per usual and it was getting on for midnight before any dinner was served : a tasty chicken casserole with mashed potatoes and peas, plus a G and T and a white wine served all at once., fighting for space on a small tray. Gone are the days when air travel felt special, even luxurious.

On arrival in Dubai, with a couple of hours to wait, I found myself in the middle of a big group of Chinese tourists. The young women were busy with their phones. Some of them wore silk jackets in traditional patterns, with the cuffs turned back to see the lining. One of them sat next to me on the plane to Madrid.  She didn’t eat any of the airline food and just watched films on her tablet. These had subtitles in Chinese, which took up 3 lines across the top of the screen and scrolled across rapidly. Really, the Chinese language isn’t suited to technology!

When we landed in Madrid, I knew it would be a scramble to get across the city to catch my train to Cordoba, which I had booked and paid for online. I got to Atocha Station with only 7 minutes to locate the Iryo lines. Iryo is a new train company that rivals and undercuts the traditional Renfe service. I just made it! I found myself sitting next to a woman on her way home to Cordoba for a funeral. She was determined to fill me in on where to go and what to eat while in Cordoba.

Rocky Bay bushwalk

The start was opposite this old factory, now converted into apartments:

There had been several factories in this area originally, but now it is prime real estate with some of the best river views in Perth.

I arrived at 8.00 am, thinking that was the start time. No-one was there! Had I got the time wrong, or the place wrong? I set off anyway, thinking I would meet the rest of the group at some point along the track. It was getting warm, with only a slight breeze off the water.

I remembered this tree from last year, but it has now finished flowering with all the hot weather:

This walk, going to Chidley Point, was at its best and there were many photogenic spots:

You can just make out the red brick factory in the distance.

The rest of the group caught up with me at morning tea time. They had set off half an hour later! 

Easter treats

Too old for eggs now, but I enjoyed a few other pleasures. First was an absolutely beautiful sunset:

We also held a meeting of our Herb Garden Committee to decide on our Autumn planting strategy. One seemingly insoluble problem is an unwanted visitor: a lone ibis who pecks around in our rich soil looking for titbits. (Our soil is more attractive than the hard, dry soil in the surrounding garden beds). The thing is, he sits on the lovely white walls all round the courtyard and leaves little black “deposits” which are a real mess to clear up. We have been asked to cover our bare soil with netting so that he is no longer attracted to the area. I hope this works!

We definitely over-catered for our meeting!  I contributed some banana bread.

At the supermarket, I was happy to discover Lambs Kidneys, something I’ve not seen in the shops for ages. Are we too affluent to eat offal these days? So I quickly searched Delia Online for her kidneys in red wine. Delicious! (I had no mushrooms so substituted carrots). This was my Easter Monday treat:

Finally caught up with the interloper:

Canning River bushwalk

It was supposed to start at 7.30 am, but I didn’t get myself out of bed in time and arrived at the start point at 7.55 am.  Never mind, the start (and end) was at the Lo Quay River Cafe. This was just opening and appeared to be one of Perth’s favourite breakfast venues. I settled for a coffee and croissant, though everyone else was ordering more exotic platefuls. I couldn’t believe how many more people were arriving to occupy tables inside and out. It’s now on my list to come again.

Lo Quay River Cafe early morning

After my quick snack, I set off in the direction of the “official” bushwalk, thinking I would come across the group sooner or later. I had a rest on a seat to contemplate the quiet surroundings, until I was attacked by a mosquito (and these are rare because of the hot, dry summer we’ve been having).

View from my seat

On the way back to Lo Quay, I was fascinated by the number of jellyfish near the bridge. I was trying to get a good photo of them when all the bushwalkers came past and were surprised to see me.

Interesting information about the location

A cup marks the spot

Sculptures by the Sea

It’s been a few years since I had a look at Sculptures by the Sea on Cottesloe Beach. It was featured on the TV News so that reminded me. I arrived before 9.00 am and it was already busy. What’s more, the catalogue cost $10 and I only had $3 with me.

Looking south towards the groyne

I wanted to see the work of Sharyn Egan, an indigenous artist whose sculptures were designed to resemble native Balga trees. She was holding workshops at the beach where anyone could join in and try their hand at making these waving fronds. It was a bit like “yarn bombing” and seemed to rely on donations of odd balls of wool.

Sharyn hadn’t arrived though others were trying their hand, but I was keen to see the rest of the exhibits before it got too hot. The sea looked very flat and calm and inviting too! (Lucky I had packed my bathers).

Workshop in progress

Pile of finished fronds from yesterday

You can enter

That's me in the mirror!

Made from caps off wine bottles

View from inside

Dustbins

Proposal

Jellyfish??

Another Camino?

I’ve come to the conclusion (very reluctantly) that I’m no longer fit enough to attempt another Camino.

My friend V gave me a newspaper article entitled Camino Lite whereby you could follow the line of the Camino Frances by train and this set me thinking about various possibilities. I know the area well enough to conclude that the train line isn’t the best idea as it doesn’t follow the route closely. Sometimes the bus would be be the better option. Also, at the end of the day I would be meeting pilgrims and wishing I was one of them.

Spain is still calling me, so I’m toying with the idea of a trip around Andalucia by train and bus. My research has included a series on YouTube by Michael Portillo, in which he takes in the major cities like Cordoba and Granada, as well as some places off the beaten track (though these require a car). Portillo himself owns a house in Carmona, which he visits often. I can visualise myself enjoying a cafe con leche  at a pavement cafe and seeing him walk past!

A highlight of my trip will be a few days in Gibraltar. This is a British Overseas Territory which has a strategic position guarding the entrance to the Mediterranean. In my 20’s, when we used to camp all over Spain, I remember stopping the car by a huge fence which blocked entry to Gibraltar. At that time, General Franco allowed no-one to cross the land border. It was closed between 1969 and 1985.

Nowadays the border is open and many Spaniards cross every day to go to work. I want to see this little piece of England with red letter boxes and phone boxes, British plugs and British coinage. Most of all, I want to visit Marks and Spencers to buy a couple of bras! Online shopping for lingerie is just not the same. I hope I’m not disappointed with the selection; I’ve heard that Gibraltarians like to shop in Spain for more choice.

What I’ve learned so far from my research is that Brexit has confused the issue and things are not getting any easier at the border. Sometimes there are long queues and long delays as officials check documents. Tourists often leave their vehicles on the Spanish side at La Linea and walk across. It’s not far, so that’s what I’ll be doing: crossing on foot, that is.

One other (amazing) thing that I’ve discovered concerns dog poo. Because Gibraltar is such a densely packed place, all dogs have to be chipped. If an owner fails to clean up after their pet, the dog poo can be tested for DNA and a fine is issued. Now that is a good idea!

Aerial view of Gibraltar