Espeyrac to Conques

It was a good day for walking, warmer than of late and overcast all day. I woke early because the church bells ring twice in these parts, so I heard 5.00 am, 6.00am and 7.00 am, but there was no breakfast to be had till 7.30.  I left at about 8.15 and made good time to the next village of Senergues. There was a boulangerie with a delicious display of charcuterie and other meats. Having queued for ages whilst the woman in front of me bought a week's supply, I purchased a mini quiche which kept me going all day, together with an orange from yesterday.

The way was partly on a quiet country road (where a white line on the left, interspersed with a diagram of walkers or a shell, reminds drivers to take care of pilgrims). The rest of the way was on woodland paths, the last one stony and steep as it made its way down into Conques. The medieval pilgrims must have been relieved to catch sight of the Abbey of St Foy, as was I a few hundred years later!

Arriving in Conques today is a shock to the system as suddenly there are hundreds of tourists milling about and getting in the way of genuine pilgrims like myself! As I walked down the street past the Hotel St Jacques, where we had stayed with the Ramblers and now fully booked, I spotted the nice couple from Adelaide who were a day ahead of me and sat down to have a beer with them.

Leaving Espeyrac

Senergues 

These boots didn't make it to Conques! They should have bought Ecco.

Woodland path down to Conques

Conques at last!

Still going downhill!

A nun races up from the abbey church to catch up with her sisters 

Golinhac to Espeyrac

Golinhac to Espeyrac

I left Golinhac about 9.00 am, feeling very free and easy with only a short day of 7.5 kms to do. I wandered along, taking lots of photos and stopping to see the views. There was a lady of my age pottering along at my speed. Only later did I discover that she was South African and doing the Chemin in a very complicated manner: she had a hire car and camping gear, and typically would walk in the mornings and then catch a bus back to where she had left the car. The poor weather, rain and cold, had spoiled her camping idea for 5 nights so far.

There were several sprinkles of rain this morning but nothing came of it. I arrived at the Hotel de Vallee in Espeyrac at around 12.30, ordered a beer and ate some bread and avocado for lunch. This hotel doesn't compare with last night's - the room is small with no ambience and no view, except of the village shop across the street!

Wheat crop beside the way

Public toilet: one of a few along the way. Why doesn't Spain have these?

Ducks wallowing in a tiny pond

Ancient wall

Approaching Espeyrac 

Clover along the way

...and cornflowers

This calf really wanted some milk and tried to persuade Mum to get up and release the supply!

Espeyrac Church

Hotel de la Vallee 

Dinner:

Vegetable soup

Salad with lentils

Pork with stuffing

Chocolate and nut tart

Today's expenses

Beer 2.40€

Rose 2.00€

Demi pension at Hotel de la Vallee 59.10€

Estaing to Golinac

Eating to Golinhac

When I drew the curtains early this morning, there was a covering of low cloud even though the forecast was for a sunny day. I went for a coffee at a local bar and then purchased a "snail" with raisins from the boulangerie for breakfast: quick and delicious. I stood outside yesterday's restaurant to check my email.

The first 2 hours out of Estaing were more or less a climb, sometimes on a quiet country road and sometimes through a woodland path, some of it quite steep. When the sun finally broke through at 10.00 am, the most splendid views were revealed. You could see for miles! It turned into a beauteous spring day, such as you only get in Northern Europe, with birds singing and abundant wild flowers in the fields and hedgerows.

The 13 or 16 kms walk dragged on a bit without any refreshment stops. Eventually I sat down on the grass and consumed an avocado and some pieces of duck left over from last night's dinner.

My bedroom at the Auberge la Bastide in Golinhac

View from my window

Delicious onion soup for dinner

The Auberge in Golinhac proved to be one of the nicest places I've stayed at on this trip. With only 5 rooms and a very caring Madame, it's definitely a place to be recommended!

Dinner menu 

Onion soup

Green beans

Roast chicken with mashed potatoes

Baked apple

I enjoyed dinner with a couple from Adelaide travelling with Camino Ways: so nice to converse in English for a change!

Today's expenses

Coffee and "snail"  3.20€

Demi pension at La Bastide  81€

Estaing

Estaing 

As the clock struck 12.00, I came within sight of Estaing, with its medieval bridge over the Lot and it's imposing Chateau in a defensive position above the town. I discovered that my hotel, Aux Armes d'Estaing, did not open its doors till 2.30 p.m. However, I was welcomed in English at the restaurant across the road, where I enjoyed a delicious local trout and a glass of beer for lunch. The wi-fi was really strong also (and practically useless in the hotel when it finally opened).

I filled in some time after lunch walking around the picturesque town and taking photos while the sun was out. I could see that more downpours were on the way. Unfortunately the Chateau is closed on Mondays and there were many disappointed grey nomads poking around!

The hotel is another that has seen better days, but the bathroom was new and the water boiling hot, so I switched on the room heater and did a bit of washing. I told the lady in reception that I would have to eat elsewhere in the evening, in order to get wi-fi! If a restaurant can provide it, why not a hotel?

My hotel is on the left, just across from the bridge.

The chateau from the bridge

Cross on the bridge

Trout for lunch

Today's expenses

Lunch 21€

Room at Aux Armes d'Estaing 55€

Dinner 22.50€

Espalion to Estaing

Pouring with rain again this morning. Wet gear donned, I set off to walk on the road to Estaing, avoiding the Chemin GR65, which would be muddy and involved climbing. The River Lot was on my right the whole way, very fast flowing, with lots of warnings to keep out of the water or be swept away by dangerous currents.

My first stop for the day was the Church at Bessuejoules, another Romanesque jewel of the Camino. It has a very special "high chapel" of St Michel, up in the tower of the church, and accessed by a narrow winding staircase, only wide enough for a very thin person to squeeze up and down. All the following photos are of this chapel (which not many people know about or bother to look at in their haste to progress on the Camino).

A 2 minute ray of sunshine came out just for this photo of the ancient tower.