Carrion de los Condes to Sahagun, 6 May (by bus)

After my bad dose of food poisoning, I was feeling too weak to walk anywhere.  Fortunately I had already booked a ticket on the bus leaving at 11.50 a.m., thus avoiding 17 ams of boring meseta, with no villages en route for refreshments.  As I was leaving the convent, I spoke to an Englishman who had just arrived in town.  He said that exactly a year ago he had suffered from gastro following a visit to that same restaurant, and what's more he had heard his neighbours throwing up as well!  I resolved to post a warning on the Santiago forum when I got home.

The day was somewhat cold and grey.  I sat in the bar where the bus tickets were booked for a couple of hours, drinking 2 "tee con limon", which was all I dared load into my stomach.  As the morning progressed, crowds of pilgrims arrived to wait for the bus.  Most had booked all the way to Leon.  The efficient ALSA system gives you a numbered seat, so there is no panic.

The bus stop for Sahagun was on this side of town, right outside the enormous hotel, Puerta del Camino.  Still feeling low, I was determined to stay there whatever the cost.  Imagine my surprise when I was quoted €25 for a single room.  I had a bath and went to bed for a 3-hour siesta, to allow my body to recover from the shock of the previous night.  I then made myself a cup of Miso soup (thanks to my new adaptor).

I watched TV for an hour and then went back to sleep.  The only problem was that this was a noisy hotel, with every surface constructed of marble, with not a single carpet anywhere.  There was a notice in Spanish warning that it had only just opened after a period of closure, so services might be somewhat restricted.  There was no mini bar, but a full range of toiletries that were very welcome and added to my dwindling supplies.

Villalcazar de Sirga to Carrion de los Condes, 5 May (5 kms)

From Villalcazar de Sirga ("town of the canal towpath") to Carrion de los Condes it was only 5 kms.  I had resolved to stay in this town for a rest.  The first accommodation I came to was the Convent of Santa Clara, where I easily secured a single room (ex-nun's cell?) so early in the day for €22.  The funny little man in charge of interacting with visitors insisted on giving me more information than I needed and showed me around the albergue facilities.  There were 3 temperamental locks to negotiate to reach my upstairs room!

It was another pleasant sunny day in which to explore the town.  Firstly, I went to the information kiosk, where I discovered that one bus per day in the direction of Leon departed at 11.50 a.m.  I went across the road to the bar to buy a ticket for tomorrow.  Emily and her 2 Korean friends were sitting in the bar waiting for today's bus.  Her chest was bad and she had almost lost her voice.  She said the walk from Fromista along the send had nearly killed her!

Setting off into the town centre, the practically first thing I saw was a Ferreteria.  I was able to buy an international adaptor for €4.  Then I followed the Camino arrows through the historic streets, passed the 2 notable churches dating back to the 11th century, crossed the river and finally ended up at the Real Monasterio de San Zoilo.  I had a poke around the grounds and the reception area (very like a Parador) and discovered that a single room was only €65.  I could have stayed there, but Emily had previously searched Booking.com and found it was full.

On the way back to Santa Clara, I had a quick shop at the biggest supermarket - a really excellent place, and bought cheese, ham, bread, a litre packet of red wine, fruit and yoghourt (probably too much to carry!) There was so much to be had, compared with previous shops on the Camino, that I got carried away.

After lunch in my little cell, I had an hour's siesta, then took a "half bath" and washed my hair.  At 5.00 p.m. when the town opened up again, I headed for the public library for a long Internet session.  I then went to the Church which reportedly had a frieze depicting the annual tribute of 100 maidens which the Moors extracted from the town in the Middle Ages.  I couldn't find it.

I had dinner at La Corte Restaurant. I chose not to take the Pilgrims' Menu, but instead selected a mixed salad followed by an enormous trout.  This was my down fall, as I was up all night with a very bad attack of gastro.

Pilgrim statue at Carrion

Monastery of San Zoilo

Romanesque church of Santa Maria del Camino

Courtyard of Santa Clara Convent

View from my window at the convent:
swallows circling at dusk

Boadilla del Campo to Villalcazar de Sirga, 4 May (21 kms)

I awoke to a cold sunny morning.  I had an apple and an orange for breakfast before setting off around 8.00 a.m., one of the last pilgrims to leave town, I suspect.  It was a delightful walk beside the Canal de Castilla, built around 1750 in the heyday of canals.  It had many informative noticeboards about the birdlife, flora and history.  Just outside Fromista was a staircase of 4 locks, apparently now disused.

I chatted again to American Emily, a young and feisty girl travelling on her own, whom I had first met in Hontanas albergue.  She had been working for an NGO in Rwanda, as an administrator trying to improve health clinics, under the auspices of the Clinton Foundation.  Her task had been to set up a training model so that Rwandans would be able to duplicate it throughout the country. 

In Fromista I had a lovely breakfast in a warm café and managed to get the Internet terminal working with Emily’s help.  All these coin operated terminals are different, and not well used because people en route are using their own wi-fi equipment and mobile phones.  Emily herself  was looking for a place to stay for a few days in Leon.  She had a severe chest infection and wanted to seek medical advice at a special clinic for pilgrims.

I had a quick look at the “jewel of Fromista”:  Iglesia de San Martin, an 11^th  century  church and one of the finest examples of pure Romanesque in Spain, now deconsecrated.

The day was getting hotter and it seemed a long trek beside the road (“senda”).  I stopped for a late lunch at Villamentero de Campos, where a strange albergue had attracted a large crowd of pilgrims.  There was a big garden with hammocks and a tepee, which are available for the night at €3 in summer  (a bit too cold at present!)

I pressed on to Villalcazar de Sirga and found a room at Las Cantigas, unfortunately directly above the bar;  but all this quitened down in time for me to get a really good night’s rest.  I didn’t wake up till 7.00 a.m. when I saw the first light of sun promising another nice day for the Camino.  I was able to get a café con leche and a croissant downstairs when the bar opened at c. 8.00 a.m.

Walking beside the canal

Staircase of locks

Informative notice board

Iglesia San Martin, Fromista

Romanesque detail

Romanesque detail

Castrojeriz to Boadilla del Campo, 3 May (20 kms)

It was a long trek to the far side of Castrojeriz, followed by a tough climb up the hill onto the Meseta.  I stopped halfway up and a woman took my photo with the view!  It took 2 hours to reach a place that sold breakfast.  In a one-horse town, a young guy on a bike was riding around offering vouchers for a free glass of wine with lunch.  I ordered their "English Breakfast" for 4 Euros and asked for the wine "para llevar" in my 250 ml bottle.  This town was Itero de la Vega, which was approx. half way to my destination at Boadilla del Camino, where I had booked a private room in the popular albergue "En el Camino".

When I arrived there, it was positively teeming with peregrinos, lying around on the grass or sitting in the sun having a beer.  The private rooms were in a newly built annexe, with a magnificent wooden front door, modelled on the sun motif on the medieval church door across the square.  The only problem, it was impossible to open or close as there was no outside handle.

The rooms were brand new, with electronic shutters and all mod cons.  When I tried to make a cup of tea, I discovered I had left my adaptor behind yet again!!  The Señora kindly gave me a flask of boiling water - maybe that is always available in Spanish hotels, if only you ask for it.

Medieval church door

Modern hostel door

Pilgrims arriving at the albergue

View of the church from my window

I went over to the albergue for the pilgrims' meal at 7.00 p.m.  It was sopa de ajo  and either fish or beef stew.  I chose the latter as it was a mistake:  very tough!  The young owner, Eduardo, was standing at the door collecting money as people left: a nice little earner for him as there were c. 50 people packing the 2 dining rooms.  I paid 30 Euros for the room and 10 Euros for the meal.  I had a very good night's sleep as there was no noise from anywhere.

Bridge leaving Castrojeriz

Orchid

Hontanas to Castrojeriz, 2 May (9 kms)

People in the dorm started stirring before 6.00 a.m., trying to pack up in the dark.  Every time the door opened, an emergency light came on in the corridor outside.  Finally, I decided I might as well join them, before going downstairs to the bar for some breakfast.  I noticed an internet terminal in the corner, which had been hidden by all the hordes of people the day before.

Long shadow

Setting out on the track through the fields was the most beautiful bit of the Camino so far, with the early morning sun right behind me, casting a huge long shadow.  I reached Castrojeriz at 9.30 a.m. and went straight to the Camping
"Camino de Santiago".  It turned out that my reserved room (33 Euros) was in fact a little caravan-type chalet, one of 4 on the top of the hill, with a magnificent view over the valley and hills opposite.  I realised that the Camino itself went right past me, behind the fence which enclosed the cam site.

I went into town to reconnoitre, intending to check out bars and restaurants for later.  MM had recommended La Taberna, so I went there and had a longer session on the internet in the corner of their bar.  I returned later at 1.00 p.m. for the set lunch (12 Euros) : sopa de ajo (garlic), then delicious   home-made albondigas with chips and salad.  I asked for an orange for dessert to take-away.

La Taberna

This town is 3 kms long - amazing!  As the day progressed, a biting easterly wind sprang up.  The sunshine could not compensate for the wind tunnel effect down the long main street.

Near the Taberna, I saw a house "Casa Grevillea" and discovered it was a B and B kept by an Australian couple.  If only I had known about it, I would have booked in there instead of the Camping which was way out on the edge of town.  I had a chat to the owner, who said she got most of her business through "passing trade".  It was certainly in an excellent spot for that. See:
casa@casagrevillia.com.au.

Convento de San Anton, 14th century ruins

Hornillos to Hontanas, 1 May (12 kms)

View from my window at Isar

Hornillos albergue on the right

We were driven back to Hornillos to continue the Camino just after 8.15 a.m.  I stopped to buy a banana at the friendly grocers, since I observed the French group stocking up with supplies.  I should have bought one of their chunks of cheese as well.  There were lots of pilgrims, walkers and cyclists, on the track.  It was another lovely Spring morning, with lilacs out in the gardens.  There was a big public swimming pool at the end of town, but the water would have been freezing!

After about 1.5 hours I stopped for coffee at the tiny albergue of San Bol, just to see what it was like. There were only 12 beds, but it was in a lovely sheltered spot in a hollow, just off the Camino.  The lady there made delicious coffee from a splendid Nespresso-type machine.  I chatted to a German and a Czech guy until the 4 French arrived from Isar.

San Bol

It was not a bad walk down to Hontanas, but there was no room there at the inn, at least no private rooms anywhere, even at 11.45 a.m.  People were already spilling out of the various bars and albergues on the main street, so as more and more people arrived, I thought it better to secure a bed in a dorm at El Puntido.  At least I got a bed near a window in a room for 7, and not in a bunk.

Outside Albergue El Puntido

I sat around in the sun all afternoon, both outside the albergue itself, opposite the church, and then on a high point in their garden with a tremendous view over the whole village.  I chatted to a Danish lady who was sunning herself up there.  The church clock struck every hour and some geese cackled in response.  Sometimes a cock crowed as well.  Would this go on all night?  (It did, minus the cock, who knew it was sleep time!

I had the pilgrims' meal at 7.00 p.m.  There was a bewildering choice of 5 dishes in each of 3 courses.   I chose paella, chicken and chips and yoghourt.  At bedtime, I knew it would be a challenge with 4 men and 2 older Spanish ladies in the dorm.  Sure enough, there was plenty of snoring, first one would start, then another, then another.  I realised too late I should have taken a pill, but I didn't want to add to the general disturbance by rustling in my bag.  I heard midnight strike, and later 3.00 a.m., then no more after that!  As I lay awake, I resolved to avoid dorms at all costs in future!

Sunbathing with a view over the town

Witch

Burgos to Hornillos, 30 April (21 kms)

My room at Meson del Cid

At 7.30 a.m. I had a good breakfast in the Meson del Cid dining room.  My table by the window enabled me to see the Cathedral across the square, especially the intricate stonework of the spires.  I also observed early pilgrims setting off for the day on the road higher up to my left.  The dining room seemed to be full of French people, obviously from a coach tour.

I was on my way by 8.45 a.m. with 21 kms to go: rather ambitious for Day One, but I was booked in at Hornillos, a stopping point with not a vast amount of accommodation.  It was a perfect day for beginning my 2014 Camino: cloudy and sunny in equal amounts.  Spring was here:  buttercups and daisies lined the way out of Burgos through the park.  Later I saw gorse in flower and many Lenten Roses.  Birds were singing, especially cuckoos.  I passed the State Prison on my right.

Milestone on way out of Burgos:  532 kms to go!

I stopped at Tardajos at 11.30 a.m.for a cafe con leche and a chocolate croissant.  On this trip, I can afford to indulge when doing so much exercise!  Now the day was getting hotter.  Rabe looked a nice spot to stay, but I had to press on.  I had quite a long rest and a siesta at the Fuente de Praotorre, where the pump of the fountain was actually producing water, but I just washed my hands and face.

The last 5 kms into Hornillos were hard going.  I concluded that 15 kms was an ideal day for me, but it's not always possible to find accommodation at that point.  I went slowly down the so-called mule-killer slope (bearing in mind that falls often happen when people are tired).  On arrival in the small town, I went straight to the Alimentacion shop, where I knew they would be willing to call the Casa Rural, Consulta de Isar, for me whilst I sat on the bench outside, consuming a cold can of beer!

The Casa was more basic than expected, 2 kms away.  It had very small rooms (5 of them, only) and not well sound-proofed.  There were 6 French people there (3 couples) and one French Canadian lady, who thankfully could chat with me and translate what the others were saying at dinner.  She even lent me her iPad to fire off a quick email home.  Dinner was Russian Salad, potato and tuna soup, veal with a beautiful fresh salad and for dessert, a flan with fruit puree.  I slept soundly after such a strenuous day and paid 58 E. for dinner, b. and b.

Little church en route