Well-heeled Pilgrims can stay in a palace if they want to. See:
http://palaciodepujadas.com
I woke up early today and left Los Arcos at 7.00 am in the dark. There were 2 people ahead of me with torches and one behind with a headlight, so I was OK. The track was wide and straight and the sky began to lighten after half an hour, with sunrise at 8.00 am.
It was quite overcast all morning: 14 degrees on leaving Los Arcos and 21 degrees entering Viana at 1.00 pm. Without my backpack I could achieve a reasonable pace, with fewer stops and fewer people asking if I was OK.
At Sansol a new Albergue was serving breakfast and doing a roaring trade. Then it was Torres del Rio, famous for its hexagonal church. I got someone to take my photo outside; I was there 4 years ago. Some people were phoning up the person with the key, but I didn't want to get chilled waiting around.
Finally, Viana came in sight. Four American women were coming in the wrong direction. They told me they had met on the Camino ten years ago and were walking backwards from Burgos to Pamplona to celebrate the anniversary.
I stopped for a beer and a piece of tortilla on the outskirts of town, but I was keen to reach the Palace, my destination! It is a lovely hotel, done up in traditional style throughout like a mini Parador. Every day on the Camino should end like this!
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