Zamora

No snow this morning in Salamanca, just the usual cold and damp (though heavy snow was falling in Hervas apparently). I left on the 10.15 am bus for Zamora which took an hour. I must say I was glad not to be walking as the way was flat and boring. I saw the odd pilgrim on the Camino which went along beside the road. 

I'm now at the Zamora Parador for 2 nights, since they are offering bargain rates for their Spring Getaway. No sign of Spring yet! This is another historic building in a lovely position overlooking the river and the bridge into town. Pilgrims come across the bridge, into the old town and then hang about waiting for the Albergue to open (after 2.30 pm today), as I could observe from my window.

I may have just seen enough cathedrals on this trip, but here are some photos of Zamora Cathedral and its collection of Flemish tapestries.

Detail of a tapestry which has 3 large panels:

The following tapestry depicts Christ opening his wounds, so that his blood pours into a wine press:

Inside the Romanesque Cathedral:

The design for this dome was much admired and copied in other cathedrals such as Salamanca and Plasencia.

Door from the cloister 

Silver gilt altarpiece

Santiago

More on Salamanca...

It was a long day of sightseeing. I was just leaving the Plaza Mayor when I ran into the 3 German pilgrims I'd last seen in Grimaldo. They'd also come part way by bus. Two of them were finishing in Salamanca whilst Birgit - brace soul - was determined to carry on to Santiago.

House of Shells

Cafe inside the Museo Art Nouveau. No photos allowed in the museum itself, which has an incredible collection of items (furniture, glassware, dolls, jewellery, photographs etc etc, all reminding me of the Jugendstil exhibits in Vienna).

Stained glass in all the windows

The museum overlooks the river. My hotel is down on the road just to the left of the picture.

Now to the cathedrals, old and new...

Nave of the new cathedral 

Entering the old, Romanesque, cathedral by stairs from the new

Altar screen

Wall paintings in St Martin's Chapel

Outside again, I found myself near the Salamanca Albergue - no unsightly yellow arrows spoil the facades of buildings here, just discreet brass plates in the pavement (and very few of them!)

Walled garden next to the Albergue 

Roman bridge across the river

The river is low and the river bed very wide. People were strolling around the sandbanks, taking advantage of the late sunshine.

Looking back to Salamanca from the bridge

Salamanca 2

I cannot believe how bloody cold it is here! Tomorrow morning snow is forecast and 2 degrees. It's a long time since I've experienced temperatures this low. At least my hotel in Salamanca is lovely and warm and I'm sitting in my room enjoying a G and T after a full day of sight seeing, watching Sky News on TV.

This morning I felt under pressure to see as much as I could before everything closed for the day. Sunday is not the best day for visiting churches, because "tourists" are excluded when Masses are on. Firstly I walked up to the Plaza Mayor, one of the biggest in Spain and took some photos before the crowds of tour groups assembled. I was particularly taken by the size of the square and by the "cameos" of figures from Spanish history - lots of them - on all sides.

Whilst there, I picked out my lunch spot: Grandma's Bakery!

Philip II

Ferdinand and Isabella

King Juan Carlos and Queen Sofia

Duke of Wellington ???

Pizarro

Franco is said to be there, protected from vandalism and graffiti, but I couldn't find him!

Spot the Golden Arches!

Salamanca

The bus left Banos at 12.50 and arrived in Salamanca at 2.05 pm. There was a stiff climb out of Banos, with hairpin bends to achieve height quickly. I was glad to be riding not walking. We were suddenly very close to the snow covered mountains and passing a ski resort (not active in April, though, I assume). The high pass marks the boundary between the region of Extremadura and Leon & Castille. To walk the whole of this route on the Via de la Plata must be very demanding and way beyond my capability - but at least I've done some of it!

Some of the small towns had been a bit grim, so I was looking forward to being in civilisation again. It was a short taxi ride to Hotel Rector, strategically placed just outside the walls of the old city. The lovely receptionist spent a long time telling me where to go and what to see, handing me an A4 sheet listing all the opening hours of the major buildings. I was a bit overwhelmed and needed time to think! My first priority was lunch! But first, there was my luxurious room to appreciate, with an orchid, Nespresso machine and Bulgari toiletries!

After a late lunch and a late siesta, it was time to don all my warm clothing and face the cold. There was a small window of sunshine between the showers, so I thought I'd just stroll up to the cathedral and back. Crowds were gathering, some in smart dresses (and shivering!) - of course, its Saturday and there's a cathedral, so obviously in Spain, there must be a wedding!

First there was a display of traditional dancing with castanets. Then a procession of girls and guys in costumes, two brass bands (in front and behind) and then the bride. I think she just took advantage of the procession, which stopped to let her come through, to a huge cheer from the crowd.

View from my window of the wall into the old city

Approaching the cathedral 

Amazingly delicate and intricate carving of the west door

Dancing outside the cathedral

A slow dance with castanets

Procession into the cathedral

Younger girls going by

Now the bride - nearly missed her in all the excitement!

Banos 2

I quizzed the man in Tourist Information Centre about the thermal baths. He said there were 2 hot springs and the water comes out at 43 degrees. It has been like that for 2000 years, when the Romans built their baths in the first century. The therapeutic treatments use the water containing sulphur and sodium (smell removed with natural ozone).

Today was back to cold and damp (only 4 degrees when I woke up at 8.00 am). Low cloud obliterated the view from my window. I poked around town for a bit and visited the Via de la Plata interpretive centre next to the Albergue. Lots of slides and display boards, but not a word in English!

Entrance to thermal baths

Waterfall

Watermill on the right in a delapidated state and up for sale

Bus ticket to Salamanca

Banos de Montemayor

I left Hotel Sinagoga at 9.30 am and walked about 2 kms down the road to get back on the Via de la Plata. It was another perfect sunny day, but according to the forecast it may be the last one for a while.

After another 5 kms (of road walking as no proper Camino track here), I reached Banos de Montemayor and soon found my hotel Los Postigos. This is a historic building which has had a nice conversion and a friendly proprietor.

I was looking for somewhere to have lunch. There are public thermal baths in the town centre with a huge hotel attached. I checked out the dining room, but it was absolutely packed with oldies, so I quickly left (knowing it would take ages to get served) and took myself to Bar Carlos near my hotel and ordered a chicken and bacon brochette w patatas fritas and a white wine. This wine was particularly good and put me in the mood for a siesta!

View on the road

Approaching Banos

Entrance to my hotel

View from my window 

Later, I went to check out the thermal baths. All the special treatments and massages designed for ageing limbs were booked out by groups of oldies from the big hotel, who got called in groups of 6 from the reception area. I just settled for a swim and relax in the heated pool. I also took a few photos of the parts dating from Roman times, which have been preserved as a mini museum.

Preparing for a plunge 

Oldies having their treatments 

Museum