First, you have to cross the Pyrenees! I've done this twice, once in 1998 and again in 2016. The first time I walked from SJPP to Roncesvalles all in one day; the second time I secured a hard-to-get bed at Orisson Albergue which split the journey in two. Both these trips were along the Napoleon Route, shown in red on the map below. This year I'm taking the slightly easier route via Valcarlos, shown in green to the left of the map.
The Napoleon Route is closed in winter, because there used to be so many pilgrims having to be rescued. It opens officially on 1st April, provided that the weather permits. In fact, there was a lot of snow up there last week.
I have copied this detailed information about the two routes:
"The difference in maximum altitude between the Napoleon route and the Valcarlos route is 400 metres. The highest point of the Napoleon route is 1450 m and the highest point of the Valcarlos route is 1055 metres. This is a considerable difference in altitude.
In the winter months, and even in other months, it will often snow at 1200-1400 metres and rain at 1000 metres. Snow will remain on the ground much longer at higher altitude.
On the Napoleon route, you must walk for more than 5 km at an altitude of over 1200 metres, something that you never reach on the Valcarlos route. This is the section of the Napoleon route that is prohibited by Spanish law from 1 November until 31 March.
In the winter months, and even in other months, it will often snow at 1200-1400 metres and rain at 1000 metres. Snow will remain on the ground much longer at higher altitude.
On the Napoleon route, you must walk for more than 5 km at an altitude of over 1200 metres, something that you never reach on the Valcarlos route. This is the section of the Napoleon route that is prohibited by Spanish law from 1 November until 31 March.
The Valcarlos route for foot pilgrims runs parallel to the main road (N 135) from SJPP to Valcarlos. When it snows heavily which happens from time to time and the snow ploughs are needed elsewhere or cannot keep up, this road can be closed for motor traffic for a day or two but remains open for pedestrians. Of course it may not be wise to walk when there is much snow on the ground because it slows you down and costs additional energy. On the other hand, it is fun to walk on a car free road. Decide what to do at the time and on the basis of good and up to date information."
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| Page from my guide book |
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| This screenshot shows the profiles of the first Camino stages |
This is a YouTube video by Efren Gonzalez, who produces vlogs of his travels specialising in drone footage:
Efren took the Napoleon Route in late September 2021.
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| Police rescue pilgrims on the Valcarlos Route, 4th April 2022 |
What a great trip. Looking forward to it!
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