Conques

After walking 206 kms every step of the way, with all its ups and downs, and in all weathers, it's time for a rest! Conques is unbelievably picturesque, with its medieval streets, narrow, winding and cobbled, and is just the spot for weary pilgrims to have some R and R.

This morning is warm and sunny. The crowds have mostly gone on their way. I've just consumed a Tarte aux Pommes from the bakery and am about to go and make a tour of the Abbey Church of St Foy. Background follows:

The original monastery building at Conques was an eighth-century oratory built by monks fleeing the Saracens in Spain.^[2] The original chapel was destroyed in the eleventh century in order to facilitate the creation of a much larger church ^[3] as the arrival of the relics of St. Foy caused the pilgrimage route to shift from Agen to Conques.^[2]The second phase of construction, which was completed by the end of the 11th century, included the building of the five radiating chapels, the ambulatory with a lower roof, the choir without the gallery and the nave without the galleries.^[3] The third phase of construction, which was completed early in the twelfth-century, was inspired by the churches of Toulouse and Santiago Compostela. Like most pilgrimage churches Conques is a basilica plan that has been modified into a cruciform plan.^[4] Galleries were added over the aisle and the roof was raised over the transept and choir to allow people to circulate at the gallery level. The western aisle was also added to allow for increased pilgrim traffic.^[5]The exterior length of the church is 59 meters. The interior length is 56 meters. the width of each transept is 4 meters. The height of the crossing tower is 26.40 meters tall.<sup>[4]. (Info from Wikipedia).

More information on this website:

https://vialucispress.wordpress.com/2013/03/21/✚-lessons-in-stone-dennis-aubrey-✚/</sup>

^{BTW, my hotel is above a gift shop built right opposite the west door of the church:}

View from my window

Artists impression

Early morning view from my window

Charmaine and  Tim, the Australian couple I'd met en route, and had dinner with again last night

....later

Having "done" the Church and its Treasury, here are a few more photos of the day:

Afternoon photo of view from my window lying in bed after my siesta

Looking down the aisle towards the altar 

East end of the church

Cloisters

Reliquary of Pepin in the Treasury, back and front

Illuminated manuscript "Song of St Foy"

Tympanum

Christ in majesty in the centre; bottom left "goodies" being welcomed into Heaven; bottom right "baddies" going to Hell

Bottom: sinners suffering greatly in Hell

More on Conques

Feeling very lazy this afternoon after my comprehensive exploration of the Church, I had a long siesta with my shutters tightly closed against the chattering mob below. Then I went for a beer at the Hotel St Jacques, where their wi fi is the best in town, albeit controlled by ever changing passwords. I got into conversation with two men (French and French Canadian) who were volunteers at the large Gite just behind the Church. They agreed to let me have a look round. It was previously the monastery and currently houses 90 pilgrims per day. It is a rabbit warren of a place, with both dorms and private ensuite rooms. (I didn't know about this, or I might have stayed there)

I have booked dinner again at the Hotel St Jacques, tonight on their terrace as it's such a warm evening.

Last night's dinner

Tiny fish pate amuse bouche

Roquefort tart with salad

Fish (maybe cod?)

Mousse with rhubarb

White wine

Expenses in Conques

Le Christmo for 2 nights plus a DIY breakfast 153.20€

2 dinners at hotel c. 45€

Goodies from boulangerie for lunch 3.70€

Entry to Treasury 4.50€

Sundry beers and coffees 16 €

Note: everything in this touristy town costs more!

Tomorrow I'm booked on the post bus which takes both luggage and pilgrims, leaving Conques at 1.30 and arriving in Figeac before 4.00. This costs 20€ door to door.

Sitting on the hotel terrace restaurant, one storey above street level: currently 23 degrees at 8.30 pm.