Sunday, October 6, 2019

Lisbon: Sunday

The really smart people visit Lisbon in winter!  I left early again (the breakfast buffet is so tempting, though). I wanted to climb up behind the hotel again and see the ruins of the Convento do Carmo. After the earthquake of 1755, Pombal ordered that the Gothic arches should be left standing, open to the sky, as a reminder of the disastrous event.






I didn’t wait for the 10.00 am opening, but descended the steep streets again to the Rue Garrett to see the Bertrand Bookshop, said to be the oldest in the world, dating back to 1732:



This was relatively quiet; hardly anyone is interested as Harry Potter was not here. It features in the book Night Train to Lisbon.

My next mission was to return to the Jeronimos Church and Monastery after yesterday’s aborted attempt. Can you believe when I got there, a mass had just started and there is no way I can pretend to be an attendee. I thought I’ll just go and get a coffee and come back. When I did so, there was an announcement over speakers that another mass would start in 5 minutes! I decided I was definitely going to find Vasco da Gama’s tomb before they shoved me out again! I was determined!

Da Gama’s tomb.



Beautiful ceiling.

My chosen coffee place was Casa Pasteis de Belém (along with about 500 other people!). This cafe is the birthplace of Portuguese Custard Tarts. It all started when the monasteries were disbanded and the monks had to find another way to make a living, so they started selling tarts from their secret recipe. They are indeed delicious: the best ones I’ve ever eaten with crisp pastry and warm wobbly insides:



After queuing for half an hour I was lucky enough to be given a table in the garden - but then I was late back to Jeronimos!


By this time I’d just about had enough of the crowds. I found Bus 728 and set off back to the cool and quiet of my hotel.

My bus was following one of the ancient trams.

Alternative forms of transport: Jump is an electric bike owned by Uber. The motorised scooters are designed in California.


I didn’t try them.










2 comments:

  1. Margaret, I missed the beginning of the trip. Will you tell why you are interested in da Gama, a name I have not heard since middle school. I truly wish the surroundings were less onerous.

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  2. Vasco da Gama was one of the great early explorers. I learned about him in first year of secondary school when we all drew maps of the voyages round the world.

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