Rabe to Hornillos 8.5 km

Last night I was keen to visit the Convent, as I’d read that the nuns sing Vespers at 8.00 which is rather beautiful. However, nothing remains the same. There were only six nuns and a priest who came to say Mass. The nuns are getting on in years. There are now only eleven in residence. It’s more like an aged care home. The music came from an iPad.

Leaving town at 8.30 am, pilgrims were happy to see some cloud cover:

There has been a heatwave in Spain over the last few days, it was reported. Someone has been busy painting murals all over town, including this memorial to Denise Thiem. She was a Chinese American who was raped and murdered on the Camino a few years ago:

Since then the Guarda Civil have stepped up patrols up and down the Way. Not a day goes by without me seeing them.

The Spanish countryside looked lovely this morning. The path stretched on ahead, little birds were singing and wind turbines were turning lazily because there was hardly any wind.

Time for a little break at the Fuente de Praotorre before the “mule killer hill”.

Camino on horseback. Hornillos in the distance.

There has always been a shortage of accommodation in Hornillos. Now there are five Albergues but they are always full. The first time I was here, I stayed off route at Isar and they provided free transport for the 3 kms. Last time, I stayed in the Albergue Meeting Point but today it’s completely full with a bus load of Koreans. I saw all their suitcases lined up outside in the garden.

I have been obliged to settle for a bunk bed in a dormitory of ten at Albergue El Alfar. The good news is that it’s a bottom bunk near the window and most of the others are young Korean girls who are very sweet and polite. I managed to have a shower while everybody else was having lunch. Fingers crossed for a good night’s sleep!