Sunday, October 8, 2017


The jewel of Redecilla is the Romanesque font. I have seen it before but the church was firmly locked this time.

The other guests at dinner were a curious bunch and little English or Spanish was spoken, so it took the Señora an age to take everybody's order with the aid of Google Translate. As well as the Frenchmen, there was an Italian guy in full military uniform and exceedingly high voice. I thought first it was a woman, but then he had a beard! He spoke no English or Spanish and I had the impression that he was so hungry he would be prepared to eat anything! There was also a group of Chinese and a drunken Irishman. For these small places it's better not to offer any choice, as it takes too long. 

In the tiny hotel my room was above the bar. All afternoon the men of the village were all playing cards - loudly!  No siesta for them! Later the women took their place, drinking coffee. Some kind of rural celebration of the potato harvest was taking place in a large barn. They were about to roast the potatoes over fires in two oil drums. It all smelt delicious, but they didn't invite me to join them!

Coming into town I passed fields of cauliflowers. Most had been harvested, but many had been missed. I love raw cauliflower: others had jumped into the field and picked some, dropping bits on the Camino, so I picked some up to keep me going!

My phone isn't charging so no photos today! 

Fixed temporarily by the Señora!

Church at Redecilla

Refugio de Acacia and Orietta

Church at Viiloria de Rioja where Sto Domingo was born in 1019

The Camino follows the route of the N120 highway Logrono to Burgos

My charming bedroom under the eaves at Hotel Verdeancho in Belorado 

People leaving church at Belorado on Sunday lunchtime

Another cold start to the day but it quickly warmed up when the sun came out.  After an hour or so I came to the village of Viloria de Rioja where I stayed last time at the Albergue of Acacio and Orietta. This lovely little place is sponsored by the writer Paul Coehlo, since Acacio is also Brazilian. The dorm sleeps 10 in the converted cowshed, so not for me this time round! They also have a wood burning stove using pellets.

I didn't want to disturb their Sunday morning so I pressed on to Belorado where I was booked in at the Hotel Verdeancho. It was here that I found the adaptor for my phone charger was Kaput. I was in a panic because it's Sunday and nothing is open. Then the Señora came to my rescue and lent me hers. I wish I could persuade her to let me buy it off her!


  1. Interesting again Margaret. Glas you got the phone charged. I am now on my third charger with my Samsung! Why not the dorm for you?

  2. I like my own space these days and my own hot shower at the end of the day!

  3. Oh, I have not succumbed to that yet, still happy in a dorm although I am very much not liking it when I get an upper bunk these days. The YHA one I use in London have recently introduced a rule that you can't ask to reserve a lower bunk however far in advance you book. Could be the final straw...

  4. There is no way I could risk my hip going up and down those ladders to the top bunk!