Sunday, October 1, 2017


I reluctantly said goodbye to the luxurious Hospederia, a beautifully-done conversion with every mod-con imaginable.  I specially liked the floor of the shower, which had pebbles set in concrete.

The weather was like yesterday, with a shower before breakfast. As I waited for the 10.20 bus into Logrono, I read the last of the information signs, which described how Laguardia was riddled with subterranean wine cellars. It's a wonder the whole place doesn't collapse!

There is a saying "the Camino provides" and I forgot to describe yesterday's provision.  As I walked from Elciego, I kept finding bars of chocolate which seemed to have just fallen off the back of a lorry. It came to me afterwards that they were probably gifts to marathon runners, surplus to their requirements. One was added to my emergency rations, together with the remains of my roast suckling pig from last night's dinner.

Arriving at the Logrono bus station at 10.50 am, I took a taxi to Hotel Calle Major - not very far but I just didn't know the way. This is a very stylish modern hotel, an award winner, with enormous bedrooms and enormous bathrooms!

My plan for the morning was to visit the Museum of the Rioja, 5 minutes walk away, and a model of how museums should be (from one who knows!). The prehistoric and Roman sections were very well-done, with paintings of daily activities to bring the exhibits to life.  There were also objects from San Milan de Cogolla and the Monasteries of Yuso and Suso, which are on my itinerary for later in the trip.

Looking out at the Rioja from Laguardia 

Diagram of subterranean wine cellars in Laguardia 

Roman central heating

Fragments of Roman wall paintings 

Terra Sigillata Hispanica - red samian ware 

Roman glass

Roman weaving

Carved wooden Christ from Suso Monastery and funerary Stella 

Panels of St Aemilian rescued from the old Suso Monastery 

16th century Spanish-Moorish tiles

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