Rabanal to El Acebo

Walk to Cruz de Ferro, then taxi to El Acebo.

I had a lovely dinner yesterday at the Hosteria El Refugio. I realised that I’d actually eaten in the restaurant there last year, but stayed elsewhere. The dining room was pretty busy, but the meals were coming out quickly. It’s a family business, a brother and two sisters. I had cod gratin w roasted veggies:

This is the dining room:


They have 16 rooms upstairs. It’s very well organised.

Next morning, it was uphill all the way: still cold and crisp and sunny. It was amazingly clear. Looking back, we could see for miles. I’ve never had such views! The trail is on the right of the picture, with a winding country road to the left.

This was a rest stop with a water fountain and water lilies growing in the large tank.

In the distance is the first stop: Foncebadon.

Lots of heathers growing. It’s just the right time of year to see them all flowering.

Foncebadon was buzzing with people. Most of them had passed me on the way as few people go at my slow speed. The only people I overtook was a Korean couple and she had hurt her knee. I stopped for coffee and some apple cake. I had a long chat with a man from Hong Kong about the situation there. You are not supposed to discuss politics on the Camino, but he was happy to talk. HK looks the same, but it’s not, he said. Those who can are getting out. Some to Taiwan and others to the UK.

A German woman was rounding up people who were interested in taking a taxi from Cruz de Ferro. Of course, I said. This was the perfect solution for me, as I knew the way down was treacherous on a very stony path. She set off and said she would wait at Cruz de Ferro for anyone interested in joining her.

Looking up the main street at Foncebadon.

Looking back down the street. It was too chilly to sit outside, but these girls were rolling cigarettes.

It was only 2 more kms up to the cross, but I was glad when it came into view:

At the top, Taxi Luis drove up. The lady at Foncebadon must have alerted him. We waited 5 minutes for the Korean couple and then we were off! Luis was intent on carrying on a conversation via Google Translate, pretending not to understand my Spanish. I just wanted him to keep his hands on the wheel on the narrow winding road instead of playing with his phone to translate jokes.

We finally arrived at El Acebo and he let me out. The others were going on to Molinaseca. My accommodation is La Rosa del Agua, the first house in the village. It’s kept by a young Dutch couple who have only been here for 6 months.

View from my window:

My washing is on the line.