Tuesday, August 19, 2014

Villalcazar de Sirga to Carrion de los Condes, 5 May (5 kms)

From Villalcazar de Sirga ("town of the canal towpath") to Carrion de los Condes it was only 5 kms.  I had resolved to stay in this town for a rest.  The first accommodation I came to was the Convent of Santa Clara, where I easily secured a single room (ex-nun's cell?) so early in the day for €22.  The funny little man in charge of interacting with visitors insisted on giving me more information than I needed and showed me around the albergue facilities.  There were 3 temperamental locks to negotiate to reach my upstairs room!

It was another pleasant sunny day in which to explore the town.  Firstly, I went to the information kiosk, where I discovered that one bus per day in the direction of Leon departed at 11.50 a.m.  I went across the road to the bar to buy a ticket for tomorrow.  Emily and her 2 Korean friends were sitting in the bar waiting for today's bus.  Her chest was bad and she had almost lost her voice.  She said the walk from Fromista along the send had nearly killed her!

Setting off into the town centre, the practically first thing I saw was a Ferreteria.  I was able to buy an international adaptor for €4.  Then I followed the Camino arrows through the historic streets, passed the 2 notable churches dating back to the 11th century, crossed the river and finally ended up at the Real Monasterio de San Zoilo.  I had a poke around the grounds and the reception area (very like a Parador) and discovered that a single room was only €65.  I could have stayed there, but Emily had previously searched Booking.com and found it was full.

On the way back to Santa Clara, I had a quick shop at the biggest supermarket - a really excellent place, and bought cheese, ham, bread, a litre packet of red wine, fruit and yoghourt (probably too much to carry!) There was so much to be had, compared with previous shops on the Camino, that I got carried away.

After lunch in my little cell, I had an hour's siesta, then took a "half bath" and washed my hair.  At 5.00 p.m. when the town opened up again, I headed for the public library for a long Internet session.  I then went to the Church which reportedly had a frieze depicting the annual tribute of 100 maidens which the Moors extracted from the town in the Middle Ages.  I couldn't find it.

I had dinner at La Corte Restaurant. I chose not to take the Pilgrims' Menu, but instead selected a mixed salad followed by an enormous trout.  This was my down fall, as I was up all night with a very bad attack of gastro.

Pilgrim statue at Carrion

Monastery of San Zoilo

Romanesque church of Santa Maria del Camino

Courtyard of Santa Clara Convent

View from my window at the convent:
swallows circling at dusk

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