Santiago rest day

I went to the pilgrims mass at 12.00, but I got there too late to get a seat. Big mistake! What was I thinking? It’s a long service and everyone is hanging out for the swinging of the Botofumeiro at the end. It is a gigantic incense bearer, said to be used in the Middle Ages to fumigate the cathedral and get rid of the stink of all the pilgrims who had walked so far without a wash:

It requires several men to control it: a unique spectacle, even for the non-religious.

Looking up at the pulley system: you wouldn’t want this to give way!

The remains of the fire that was inside the Botofumeiro.


A security guard looking after the collection moneys in the red velvet bags.

Masks were obligatory in the Cathedral, which was absolutely packed and controlled by security guards. Afterwards I went outside and sat in the sun which had made an appearance in spite of the poor forecast. I was pondering where to have lunch and decided that the best choice was the Parador again, away from the hoi poloi.

Stuffed sea urchin au gratin.


Roast lamb shoulder with piquitos padron.

A couple opposite ordered some kind of flambé:

When I was here before, I spoke to an old lady who ate here often and always sat at the same table. It transpires that she was the widow of a famous local writer, and has passed away herself now. There is a plaque on the wall by the table which was theirs:

It’s quite a splendid dining room: