Los Arcos to Viana (19 kms) 8 May

Leaving Los Arcos at the crack of dawn

I am now installed in the Palacio de Pujadas, a haven of luxury “at the top end of the market and top end of town” (literally), but only €50 for a beautiful room overlooking the ruins of San Pedro. It is a restored former stately home, a bit like a small Parador. 9 kms short of Logrono. I have done about 19 kms today, so I am making good time on the Camino.

One tiny blister has appeared in spite of Claire’s excellent socks. I have just filled up the bath with bubbles, flung in all my clothes and jumped in myself! Bliss! The room is in Spanish style; in fact, the whole hotel is beautifully renovated.

It was another good day for walking, with total cloud cover. There were lots of wildflowers again, including many orchids, but European orchids are very smtall so you need to be observant. Poppies were everywhere and rows of grapevines just shooting. En route, I visited another octagonal church at Torres del Rio, very similar to the one at Eunate.

Santo Sepulchro Church at Torres del Rio

I had a look round the San Pedro ruins: a 13th century fortified church, partially destroyed during the Spanish Civil War. On the other side is a terrace with fantastic views of Logrono and the Ebro Valley. The guide book tells me that Viana was a major pilgrim halt in the 15th century, and was also noteworthy because Cesare Borgia died there defending Viana in the siege of 1507.

Orchids

Poppies

Grapevines