Tuesday, June 30, 2020

Onslow to Carnarvon to Geraldton

Two long days driving, with temperatures dropping gradually from 30 degrees to 20 degrees as I progressed south. There was little traffic in my direction, but every caravan in Perth was heading north, as well as 4WDs loaded up with camping gear, spare petrol cans and boats. I was a bit jealous that their holidays were just starting while mine was ending. Still, we had a great time before JL’s accident and he was really pleased to be able to re-visit familiar spots and old haunts one more time. He sounded quite cheerful on the phone from the hospital, but it will be a slow recovery at his age, I imagine (tough as he is!)

In Carnarvon I stayed at the Hospitality Inn and enjoyed their restaurant again. I ordered Rankin Cod with miso crust and roast vegetables, on a bed of hummus. The photo doesn’t do it justice:


Arriving in Geraldton, there was a big black cloud overhead and it was raining out to sea. I had to look for some warmer clothes before I could walk along the promenade.


I love this octopus:


At the Ocean Centre Hotel, I got a ground floor room facing the ocean and ordered Shark Bay Whiting from the Provincial Restaurant nearby, which promises to arrive as room service in 25 minutes.








Sunday, June 28, 2020

Karratha to Onslow

This was an uneventful day on the road, going back to the nice accommodation awaiting at Onslow Beach Resort. Not a lot to say, but a few photos of the trip:


This group of three are taken at Fortescue Road House (the worst one we came across: toilets with an out of order sign and the septic tank being emptied round the back!) The photo above shows an abandoned workers’ camp, where I did find a Ladies with the door hanging off.



At Onslow, I went for a sunset walk along the water’s edge:





Loading salt from JL’s jetty.

I spotted a bottle of Aperol in the bar and enjoyed a relaxing Aperol Spritz before heading back to my unit for a stir fry and good TV reception.






Saturday, June 27, 2020

Disaster at 4.00 am

At Eighty Mile Beach, JL got up to go to the loo in the night and slipped on the wet bathroom floor. I heard a big crash and knew this was bad news. It took a while to get him up and longer to get him back to bed, as he could not bear any weight on his right leg. He was in pain and couldn’t find a good position to lie down. All I had to give him was a couple of Panadol.

Next morning, we had some breakfast and I packed up quickly. I asked two of the guys from the nearby caravans to help getting JL into the car. They wanted to call an ambulance, but I knew that the best option was for me to drive him in 2.75 hours to Port Hedland hospital. Fortunately he found sitting up in the car was not too bad. We had to do a tour of South Hedland looking for the hospital. Then I saw an ambulance and decided to follow it. Not the best idea as it took us to the cemetery where an aboriginal burial was about to take place. We are not ready for the cemetery yet, said JL!

To cut a long story short, the hospital said he had a fractured hip and that the Royal Flying Doctor Service would fly him to Perth later that day. I could go with him on the plane if I wanted and leave my car in their secure lock up.  I decided not to, as I would need my car and he was in good hands.

We had planned to drive back on the inland route over six days. I stayed overnight in the South Hedland Lodge, a motel with nothing to recommend it. Vehicles came and went all night on the crunchy gravel outside and I was worried about the situation. A man in the room next door was sitting outside early next morning having a smoke and advised me to go back by the coast road. He said there were just too many road trains on the inland route and I would be constantly having to overtake them. Even though it was shorter in distance, it would take longer because of all the trucks going to and from the mines in the Pilbara.

At least I was familiar with the coast road and knew where to stop, so that’s what I did. I pulled in for a rest at Whim Creek, a long established road house where we had camped in the past with the Nats. I remembered we had seen press cuttings displayed in the bar, showing scenes from a cyclone where the people had to shelter in a shipping container. Sad to say, it is now closed up and fenced off:


Back on the road, my phone pinged with a message from the hospital. He had been taken from the State Trauma Unit to a private wing, where the Consultant would operate on him. His son G was there with him.

Still feeling tired, I had another rest overlooking the creek at Roebourne:


There was nobody around: the town was absolutely deserted except for some other tourists in a 4WD. Just down the road it was a different story. A massive police operation was in force for a Random Breath Test. These had been banned for weeks because of Covid. There was even a booze bus which would confirm positive blood alcohol tests if necessary. It was 11.30 am. 

I finally got to Karratha at lunchtime, checked into the Central Apartments and went to bed for a 2 hour siesta. This is a good place to stay, quiet and newly renovated inside. JL phoned me at 7.00 pm with all the news. His operation had been done with a new technique which put the lower half of his body under anaesthetic, whilst the top half was aware of what was going on. He sounded in amazingly good form considering everything that had happened. I told him to stay put till I got back.







Friday, June 26, 2020

Eighty Mile Beach

The road from Broome was particularly boring, so we sped along. There was hardly any traffic going south, but many many caravans going north in the Grey Nomad Getaway. We stopped for lunch at Sandfire Roadhouse, where we observed a massive road train and some pet peacocks:




We stopped once to look at some beautiful Wickham’s Grevillea, flowering by the roadside in abundance, taking advantage of the rain run off ( not that we have seen any rain!)







The road from the highway into Eighty Mile Beach is 10 minutes of gravel, well maintained as gravel goes, but still bouncy and dusty. My Prius was not built for off-road. On arrival, we had a short siesta to recover, then it was time to go up over the dune to see the famous beach. JL sat on a bench whilst I walked out a long way to the water’s edge. Some seagulls were quarrelling over a dead fish:




A Malaysian lady showed me her shell collection:


A signboard was informative about migrating birds:








Wednesday, June 24, 2020

Broome: time to say goodbye

On our last day, we wanted to pack in as much as we could. First on the agenda was a little bit of retail therapy in town. During the lockdown, I didn’t go near a shop for about 6 weeks, saving quite a bit of money in the process. Now I have a get-out-of-jail card and it’s very tempting to go mad and buy stuff!




At Paspaleys, it was only looking!


This is a new sandalwood shop, but they don’t seem to be doing a lot of business; too many products and too expensive! I just bought mosquito coils.


I want to get into macrame again.

I discovered that Cable Beach Club was reopening today, so I was keen to revisit the place and wander through the gardens, culminating with a drink at the Sunset Bar. They were only serving “house guests”, we were told, but JL persuaded someone to bend the rules and two G and T’s appeared!




The gardens were looking particularly well cared for.




At 5.20 it was time to cross the road for a final sunset viewing:




Just in time to see the red camels coming up from the beach on their way home.



















Tuesday, June 23, 2020

Return journey

Tentative plans for coming home:

Broome to Eighty Mile Beach Thurs 25th

374 kms


Eighty Mile Beach to Port Hedland Fri 26th

255 kms 


Port Hedland to Auski Sat 27th

262 kms


Auski to Newman Sun 28th

192 kms


Newman to Meekatharra Mon 29th

420 kms


Meekatharra to Payne’s Find Tues 30th

337 kms


Payne’s Find to Perth Wed 1st July

430 kms


Meanwhile ... back in Perth, C and E have adopted a greyhound! These dogs are rescued from the racing industry and would not be kept alive when they didn’t warrant their upkeep. Their dog is apparently a real softie and quite a handsome beast. His name is Rocky:





Broometime2

On Sunday, Broome restaurants like to offer a traditional roast dinner. We decided to try the Bali Hai version. It was huge:




I was wearing my new earrings, purchased at the Saturday markets. They are based on a boab tree:


Our outdoor area is perfect for pre dinner drinks. I invented an orange sangria one day with sherry:



Our friendly frog continues to visit us at night when we go into the bathroom. This is open to the stars which are very bright up here.

He can jump a long way and scrambles quickly up the walls with the help of the suction pads on his feet.

View looking up from our shower.






Monday, June 22, 2020

Town Beach

There have been a lot of changes to Town Beach since we were last here: sandstone blocks, landscaping, green grass, children’s playground etc etc. I could hardly recognise it. I thought they must have removed the iconic Japanese gateway, so I was delighted to find it still in position:


Looking out to the mangroves:

:


Some of the artworks in the pavement:



Ideal spot for a coffee:


At the Visitors Centre I had a walk round the outside as I knew they had plantings of Kimberley flora. I found a Wickham’s Grevillea and a Gubinge Tree:



Gubinge Tree; airport behind.


The Gubinge has a greater concentration of vitamin C than any other fruit and is much prized by the aborigines, but it’s not in season just now.

The Pandanus had shed loads of nuts:


Grevillea and Acacia:

















Saturday, June 20, 2020

Gantheaume Point

We usually drive out to Gantheaume at sunset and enjoy a G and T on the rocks. JL’s gammy leg no longer allows scrambling about, so we went during the morning when we could see what we were doing. As we approached the lighthouse, we could hear frantic chirping from baby ospreys demanding food. One of the parents had caught a big fish and was chewing it up into small pieces for the offspring:


The nest is on the side platform, half way up the tower.



The rocks at Gantheaume are pretty spectacular:


Dinosaur footprints were found on the seabed; casts of these are on display for visitors:





JL rested on a flat rock:


The Broome coastline is behind him. We found a couple of wildflowers out:



These are grey mulla mulla; usually they are purple.