It was a good day for walking, warmer than of late and overcast all day. I woke early because the church bells ring twice in these parts, so I heard 5.00 am, 6.00am and 7.00 am, but there was no breakfast to be had till 7.30. I left at about 8.15 and made good time to the next village of Senergues. There was a boulangerie with a delicious display of charcuterie and other meats. Having queued for ages whilst the woman in front of me bought a week's supply, I purchased a mini quiche which kept me going all day, together with an orange from yesterday.
The way was partly on a quiet country road (where a white line on the left, interspersed with a diagram of walkers or a shell, reminds drivers to take care of pilgrims). The rest of the way was on woodland paths, the last one stony and steep as it made its way down into Conques. The medieval pilgrims must have been relieved to catch sight of the Abbey of St Foy, as was I a few hundred years later!
Arriving in Conques today is a shock to the system as suddenly there are hundreds of tourists milling about and getting in the way of genuine pilgrims like myself! As I walked down the street past the Hotel St Jacques, where we had stayed with the Ramblers and now fully booked, I spotted the nice couple from Adelaide who were a day ahead of me and sat down to have a beer with them.
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