Boadilla del Campo to Villalcazar de Sirga, 4 May (21 kms)

I awoke to a cold sunny morning.  I had an apple and an orange for breakfast before setting off around 8.00 a.m., one of the last pilgrims to leave town, I suspect.  It was a delightful walk beside the Canal de Castilla, built around 1750 in the heyday of canals.  It had many informative noticeboards about the birdlife, flora and history.  Just outside Fromista was a staircase of 4 locks, apparently now disused.

I chatted again to American Emily, a young and feisty girl travelling on her own, whom I had first met in Hontanas albergue.  She had been working for an NGO in Rwanda, as an administrator trying to improve health clinics, under the auspices of the Clinton Foundation.  Her task had been to set up a training model so that Rwandans would be able to duplicate it throughout the country. 

In Fromista I had a lovely breakfast in a warm café and managed to get the Internet terminal working with Emily’s help.  All these coin operated terminals are different, and not well used because people en route are using their own wi-fi equipment and mobile phones.  Emily herself  was looking for a place to stay for a few days in Leon.  She had a severe chest infection and wanted to seek medical advice at a special clinic for pilgrims.

I had a quick look at the “jewel of Fromista”:  Iglesia de San Martin, an 11^th  century  church and one of the finest examples of pure Romanesque in Spain, now deconsecrated.

The day was getting hotter and it seemed a long trek beside the road (“senda”).  I stopped for a late lunch at Villamentero de Campos, where a strange albergue had attracted a large crowd of pilgrims.  There was a big garden with hammocks and a tepee, which are available for the night at €3 in summer  (a bit too cold at present!)

I pressed on to Villalcazar de Sirga and found a room at Las Cantigas, unfortunately directly above the bar;  but all this quitened down in time for me to get a really good night’s rest.  I didn’t wake up till 7.00 a.m. when I saw the first light of sun promising another nice day for the Camino.  I was able to get a café con leche and a croissant downstairs when the bar opened at c. 8.00 a.m.

Walking beside the canal

Staircase of locks

Informative notice board

Iglesia San Martin, Fromista

Romanesque detail

Romanesque detail

Castrojeriz to Boadilla del Campo, 3 May (20 kms)

It was a long trek to the far side of Castrojeriz, followed by a tough climb up the hill onto the Meseta.  I stopped halfway up and a woman took my photo with the view!  It took 2 hours to reach a place that sold breakfast.  In a one-horse town, a young guy on a bike was riding around offering vouchers for a free glass of wine with lunch.  I ordered their "English Breakfast" for 4 Euros and asked for the wine "para llevar" in my 250 ml bottle.  This town was Itero de la Vega, which was approx. half way to my destination at Boadilla del Camino, where I had booked a private room in the popular albergue "En el Camino".

When I arrived there, it was positively teeming with peregrinos, lying around on the grass or sitting in the sun having a beer.  The private rooms were in a newly built annexe, with a magnificent wooden front door, modelled on the sun motif on the medieval church door across the square.  The only problem, it was impossible to open or close as there was no outside handle.

The rooms were brand new, with electronic shutters and all mod cons.  When I tried to make a cup of tea, I discovered I had left my adaptor behind yet again!!  The Señora kindly gave me a flask of boiling water - maybe that is always available in Spanish hotels, if only you ask for it.

Medieval church door

Modern hostel door

Pilgrims arriving at the albergue

View of the church from my window

I went over to the albergue for the pilgrims' meal at 7.00 p.m.  It was sopa de ajo  and either fish or beef stew.  I chose the latter as it was a mistake:  very tough!  The young owner, Eduardo, was standing at the door collecting money as people left: a nice little earner for him as there were c. 50 people packing the 2 dining rooms.  I paid 30 Euros for the room and 10 Euros for the meal.  I had a very good night's sleep as there was no noise from anywhere.

Bridge leaving Castrojeriz

Orchid