Hornillos to Hontanas, 1 May (12 kms)

View from my window at Isar

Hornillos albergue on the right

We were driven back to Hornillos to continue the Camino just after 8.15 a.m.  I stopped to buy a banana at the friendly grocers, since I observed the French group stocking up with supplies.  I should have bought one of their chunks of cheese as well.  There were lots of pilgrims, walkers and cyclists, on the track.  It was another lovely Spring morning, with lilacs out in the gardens.  There was a big public swimming pool at the end of town, but the water would have been freezing!

After about 1.5 hours I stopped for coffee at the tiny albergue of San Bol, just to see what it was like. There were only 12 beds, but it was in a lovely sheltered spot in a hollow, just off the Camino.  The lady there made delicious coffee from a splendid Nespresso-type machine.  I chatted to a German and a Czech guy until the 4 French arrived from Isar.

San Bol

It was not a bad walk down to Hontanas, but there was no room there at the inn, at least no private rooms anywhere, even at 11.45 a.m.  People were already spilling out of the various bars and albergues on the main street, so as more and more people arrived, I thought it better to secure a bed in a dorm at El Puntido.  At least I got a bed near a window in a room for 7, and not in a bunk.

Outside Albergue El Puntido

I sat around in the sun all afternoon, both outside the albergue itself, opposite the church, and then on a high point in their garden with a tremendous view over the whole village.  I chatted to a Danish lady who was sunning herself up there.  The church clock struck every hour and some geese cackled in response.  Sometimes a cock crowed as well.  Would this go on all night?  (It did, minus the cock, who knew it was sleep time!

I had the pilgrims' meal at 7.00 p.m.  There was a bewildering choice of 5 dishes in each of 3 courses.   I chose paella, chicken and chips and yoghourt.  At bedtime, I knew it would be a challenge with 4 men and 2 older Spanish ladies in the dorm.  Sure enough, there was plenty of snoring, first one would start, then another, then another.  I realised too late I should have taken a pill, but I didn't want to add to the general disturbance by rustling in my bag.  I heard midnight strike, and later 3.00 a.m., then no more after that!  As I lay awake, I resolved to avoid dorms at all costs in future!

Sunbathing with a view over the town

Witch

Burgos to Hornillos, 30 April (21 kms)

My room at Meson del Cid

At 7.30 a.m. I had a good breakfast in the Meson del Cid dining room.  My table by the window enabled me to see the Cathedral across the square, especially the intricate stonework of the spires.  I also observed early pilgrims setting off for the day on the road higher up to my left.  The dining room seemed to be full of French people, obviously from a coach tour.

I was on my way by 8.45 a.m. with 21 kms to go: rather ambitious for Day One, but I was booked in at Hornillos, a stopping point with not a vast amount of accommodation.  It was a perfect day for beginning my 2014 Camino: cloudy and sunny in equal amounts.  Spring was here:  buttercups and daisies lined the way out of Burgos through the park.  Later I saw gorse in flower and many Lenten Roses.  Birds were singing, especially cuckoos.  I passed the State Prison on my right.

Milestone on way out of Burgos:  532 kms to go!

I stopped at Tardajos at 11.30 a.m.for a cafe con leche and a chocolate croissant.  On this trip, I can afford to indulge when doing so much exercise!  Now the day was getting hotter.  Rabe looked a nice spot to stay, but I had to press on.  I had quite a long rest and a siesta at the Fuente de Praotorre, where the pump of the fountain was actually producing water, but I just washed my hands and face.

The last 5 kms into Hornillos were hard going.  I concluded that 15 kms was an ideal day for me, but it's not always possible to find accommodation at that point.  I went slowly down the so-called mule-killer slope (bearing in mind that falls often happen when people are tired).  On arrival in the small town, I went straight to the Alimentacion shop, where I knew they would be willing to call the Casa Rural, Consulta de Isar, for me whilst I sat on the bench outside, consuming a cold can of beer!

The Casa was more basic than expected, 2 kms away.  It had very small rooms (5 of them, only) and not well sound-proofed.  There were 6 French people there (3 couples) and one French Canadian lady, who thankfully could chat with me and translate what the others were saying at dinner.  She even lent me her iPad to fire off a quick email home.  Dinner was Russian Salad, potato and tuna soup, veal with a beautiful fresh salad and for dessert, a flan with fruit puree.  I slept soundly after such a strenuous day and paid 58 E. for dinner, b. and b.

Little church en route