Tuesday, May 10, 2022

Leon to Villavante

I left the Posada Regia after a leisurely breakfast, with the intention of visiting my favourite spot in Leon: the Museum of San Isidoro. It opens at 10.00 am.

If I ever stay in this Posada again, I must ask for a higher floor, as I heard lots of comings and goings on the ancient staircase. There are plenty of antiques on display; it’s like a museum in itself:


“Room at the inn” for unexpected births!



The Museum of San Isidoro is not far away. This was my third visit as I find the wall paintings in the Royal Pantheon fascinating. Each time I go, the no-photography rule gets stricter! Religious scenes decorate the ceiling, but I love the “agricultural calendar” showing typical peasant activities for each month of the year. (eg pruning vines in Spring, killing a pig in the Autumn, sitting by the fire in December). Twelve months are depicted over an archway. I took photos in the past but no chance today! This poster gives you an idea:



Romanesque cloister.

Upstairs is the library with a  unique collection of ancient books. The photo above, taken when the guard wasn’t looking, shows the oldest incanabula: huge tomes, each with its own slot on the shelf. They are all hand written by the monks and decorated with small scenes in vivid colours.

This is a replica of one of them; you are actually allowed to turn the heavy parchment pages. It’s just like the real thing!





Next door is the church. There was a Mass in progress so I had to be quick. There are both Romanesque and Mozarabic influences in the architecture:







After that I had a quick coffee and walked for one final time down the street which connects the Cathedral with the river. All the best shops are here; it’s a shoppers paradise. I absolutely must come back when I can buy stuff! At the corner of my hotel’s street is a shoe shop selling an incredible collect of trainers, made by all the world’s leading brands including Ecco, Clark’s, Birkenstock etc etc.

Away from temptation I made my way to the bus station and watched ALSA buses come and go before mine finally turned up. It was only a half hour journey and I observed quite a few pilgrims walking along beside the road in the 30 degree heat. Not for me!

This is my bed at the Casa Rural Molino Galochas:

It seems to be a traditional marriage bed with gold decoration.


This is the building over the water.


The main railway line Leon-Astorga goes right past, but there has only been one train so far at about 5.30 pm.


Ancient well in the garden.


Fat cat waiting to be let in.



Beautiful dinner!



The Senora demonstrates the Galochas collection: 
the one above is for weddings,

This is for working in the fields.



Threshing machine used up to 1965. Pulled by cows in these parts.

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