Saturday, May 7, 2022

Sto Domingo to Burgos

Today was the “Big Leap Forward” - 70 kms on the bus for less than 5 Euros: a bargain!

Last night I had dinner in the Parador with these lovely ladies: they met on a previous Camino going up to O’Cebreiro. Now they go on Camino together every year, one from the USA and one from Liverpool. On the right is Nidarosa from the Forum:



We were joined by a nice man from Sidney, who insisted on buying the wine.

A few of the starters: mine was pumpkin soup.



Early morning view from my window. I had requested a room overlooking an inner courtyard as I thought it would be quieter. (On a previous visit to Sto Domingo I had suffered from celebrations going on all night, but I needed have worried on this occasion).

The bus left at 8.25 and took an hour. There were stops at many of the Camino towns such as Belorada and Villafranca Montes de Oca, and pilgrims could be seen walking along the trail beside the road. Some got on the bus to shorten their journey, while others got off as it was such a lovely day for walking.

The bus station in Burgos is conveniently near to the town centre and soon I was looking at one of my favourite sights on the whole Camino:



I deposited my backpack at my hotel, Maison del Cid  and went to have breakfast. That took a while as everyone wanted to eat at the cafe on the sunny side of the square.

Fortified with coffee and a Napoletana, I went for a tour of the Cathedral, thought to be the most beautiful on the Camino. It has certainly attracted a lot of patrons over the years, who all sponsored artistic and architectural additions.

Tourists enter by the south door.


The golden staircase, built to access the north entrance and accommodate the 8m height difference on the difficult site. It was designed by Diego de Siloe, an architect who had just arrived in Burgos from Italy. The ornate railings of the staircase give off a golden glow.

In the central crossing, you must look up to admire the dome. Philip II said it appeared to have been made by angels not men. Directly below this, in a “privileged spot” is the grave of El Cid and his wife:






Chapel of the Constables. The tombs rest on a big block of jasper.



Retro choir: Renaissance stone carvings.



Portrait of El Cid in the cloister.


Lunch. A mixed salad with baby eels on top!


View from my room in Meson del Cid.


2 comments:

  1. I am thoroughly enjoying your pilgrimage; perhaps more than you since I'm doing none of the work. I had to look up Napoletana, and found a wide variety of pasta dishes. Since you ended it in "a", I assume a pastry. However, I also found a beautiful spaghetti dish I have made that consisted of tomatoes, oil, some spices and spaghetti cooked raw into the dish. It was exquisite.

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  2. It’s the name of a chocolate-filled pastry in these parts.
    M.

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