Cuenca continued

After the long Cathedral visit, I walked back up the hill past my Posada as far as the remains of the Castle:

From here there is another view of the Parador on the opposite side of the gorge:

Then it was time for lunch down in the main square. If a car comes down at speed, it’s best to stand well back against the wall:

Lunch was baby lamb chops. I started off sitting outside with an apple and walnut salad, but it began to feel a bit chilly so I asked if I could be moved to a table inside.

As it was early, this was possible. My table was up several flights of stairs overlooking the square. My waiter was a friendly guy from Nepal, who spoke really good English. I told him I had trekked in Nepal when I was a lot younger.

Dessert was tiramisu and never mind the calories!

Looking down on part of the kitchen on my way out.

As I left the restaurant it was starting to rain. A heavy thunderstorm went on all afternoon, but this was siesta time anyway.

Cuenca

Cuenca is best known for its Hanging Houses (Casas Colgatas) whose balconies protrude perilously out from the rock over the gorge:

I realised later that my hotel, the Posada de San Jose is one of them, though only the garden protrudes:

The Posada is the pale grey building below the church.

The Posada itself is quite an old building, originally built as a home for the choir boys so that they could live close to the Cathedral and not be late for Mass. My room has a lovely French window onto the tiny balcony, where it’s pleasant to sit looking out onto the gorge. There are some nice touches, like this door hanging of traditional embroidered cut work:

My first port of call this morning was the Cathedral, just down the street:

It is of course a Gothic building, though much of the stained glass seems to be modern:

There is a lot of local Cuenca marble used in the side chapels.

One of several cupboards in the sacristy where the ecclesiastical robes were kept. Each one has a different carved door; this one depicts the Annunciation.


An ancient burial set into the floor and covered in glass.

The old clock mechanism.

Going outside, overlooking the gorge, it was nice to warm up in the sun for a while:

Top left are the roofs of houses way below in the bottom of the gorge.

A lovely solitary tree in a protected spot.

Another view of the Hanging Houses from inside the Cathedral.

Toledo to Cuenca

By bus.

The bus left at 4.15 pm, so I had plenty of time to kill in Toledo (and most Spanish museums close on Mondays). By accident, I found myself in the MAIN SHOPPING STREET! This goes from the Cathedral exit known as the door of the clock and leads up to Zocodover Square.

I enjoyed a couple of hours window shopping, almost avoiding all temptation. There were some very stylish dress shops! But everything has to be carried.

Cork shop (i.e. bags made from )

More medieval weaponry


The square was buzzing with people and tour guides:

This is as far as I went.

On the way back, I came across a specialist ham shop. For some time I had been wanting to try some Bellota Ham from the black pigs fed on acorns, to see how it compares with the common or garden stuff. It is indeed delicious and easier to eat because it is much less chewy. I imagine it has been air dried for longer than the normal cheaper jamon. I treated myself to a sandwich, generously laden with Bellota, which cost €9. Now I know! I had the sandwich for lunch and finished it off on the bus in the afternoon.

As I was one of the last to board the bus, I snagged the front seat, reserved for pregnant/elderly passengers, so I had a two-hour scenic drive through the parched Spanish landscape south of Madrid. This was spoiled to some extent by the loud pop music played by the driver (perhaps to keep himself awake on the long straight road).

When I arrived at the Posada de San Jose, I was given a room with a view to die for. Across the gorge was the Parador. I decided to pop over there for a G and T before doing anything else!

Toledo cathedral et al

In the Middle Ages, Toledo built a reputation for producing swords, instruments of torture and other metal devices. Lots of tiny replicas are on sale in the gift shops, but this one is unusual:

They were selected to make realistic objects for the film.

Lunch was again at the nearest restaurant to the Posada:

There were three young waiters being trained and they brought my meal very quickly. I had venison medallions cooked in apples, followed by lemon sorbet:




Dessert Menu (an impossible choice!)

Now for the Cathedral.

By this time, my brain was reaching capacity for absorbing too much more information, so I declined the audio guide and just wandered around using the Spanish guide book on my iPhone. Occasionally I listened to one of the accredited tourist guides giving their spiel. Toledo is an enormous Gothic structure:

The high altar has a series of carvings depicting the life of Jesus. My memory of bible stories is not good, but I did recognise the Three Wise Men:


Treasures in the Sacristy included an El Greco given pride of place:

… and a very early carving of Mother and Child:


Walking round the cloister, I took this shot of the tower:

More pics of the treasures:

Enough?

Toledo continued

Today, Sunday, was Election Day in Spain. Lots of things were closed this morning as a result. Why didn’t I think? I walked over to the Jewish Quarter, hoping to visit the Sephardic Museum, but it was only going to be open for an hour in the afternoon.

Bronze plaque in the pavement.

On the way back to the Posada, I found something open: the Taller de Moro, in an old Mudejar palace. It had reputedly been a workshop for repairs to the Cathedral during the Middle Ages.

Map depicting the various churches from the three religions, which managed to exist side by side in Toledo for many years.





Artist’s impression of a royal gathering.

Outside again, heading back past the Cathedral, which would open for visitors in the afternoon:

Next: lunch!